Italy 2019

Taking the chance to run a marathon while on vacation, we bounced over to Venice. The marathon was not as good as planned; Justin was not in great shape and faded a bit coming into town. His friend, Kirsten, was traveling with us but was injured and could not compete. After the race, we strolled the streets, enjoying Aperol Spritz, wine, and some beer. The next few days, we visited Doge Palace, the Bridge of Sighs, and St. Mark's Square. We even saw The Campo San Barnaba, which is where Indiana Jones exits the library in The Last Crusade. Pizza was plentiful, as was pasta, and we navigated the small alleyways out to Rialto Bridge and other interesting views. We wanted to do a gondola ride on the canal, but it was insanely expensive. Venice takes significant advantage of tourism, and it limited our potential to make the most of it. Soon it was time to get out of the tight city.

We rented a car and headed west, stopping first at the Madonna Della Corona, a beautiful church built into the side of a mountain. It was raining, so after we walked a long way down the mountain, we finally come to it, but the view was impaired by the mist. Inside, the church was petty, but the location is the real draw to this place. We drove on to Sirmione, a small village on a peninsula jetting out into lake Garda. We parked and walked the road into the city at the end which looked like a castle. The entire place was surrounded by water, and the city walls protected the area. Gelato places were everywhere - far more than are needed for this small place. We ate at Trattoria La Fiasca, enjoying amazing food and the best bread and balsamic we have ever tasted. We toyed with stopping in fair Verona to see Juliet's balcony from Romeo & Juliet (whatever that means), as well as try grappa in Bassono del Grappa, but the persistent rains kept us in the car. 

We took the train north to Conegliano and then a cab to Soligo. This is where Prosecco is made and it was a beautiful place. We ate pizza at Pizzeria Tonino and had beers. At first, we thought it was the price per slice so we got about 6 of them. It turns out the cheap price was per pizza, so we ended up with more than we could possibly eat. The next day we went on a wine tour, learning about the production of Prosecco and the government regulation over the use of the name. We even walked up a hill and bought a bottle from a vending machine which we enjoyed overlooking the valley. All of the wine was solid.

Venice was crowded and expensive, and it was not making the list of my favorite places in Italy. However, we really enjoyed the areas around it and vowed to come back. We caught great weather for the race and the wine country while it was poor in between, so that was also a win. 

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Greece

Coming to Greece has always been a dream. We almost came a couple of summers ago, but I went climbing in South America and we bought a house instead. So this was our year. We almost didn't make it here. Our plan was to do some white-water rafting and trekking in Nepal. All plans were made, but in September, I felt the marathon calling again, and decided to make a trip of it. Never have I planned such an endeavor so close to the date.  But when we landed in Athens, it all became a reality.

We quickly jumped in the car and drove several hours to Delphi. "According to mythology, it is here that the two eagles sent out by Zeus from the ends of the universe to find the navel of the world met. The sanctuary of Delphi, set within a most spectacular landscape, was for many centuries the cultural and religious centre and symbol of unity for the Hellenic world." -visitgreece.gr We strolled into the ancient site, tucked away on a hillside, not knowing what to expect. Our first surprise was that entrance was free. We explored the museum first because, as with most sites in Greece, all of the good stuff is being preserved away from the elements indoors. Outside are ruins, and the whole scale of the site cannot be appreciated without understanding what it should look like if it were still standing. Then we walked the grounds, seeing the famed Temple of Apollo, the theater, and the stadium. Delphi is nothing if it is not hilly! But our efforts were rewarded when we had dinner at Taverna To Patriko Mas, a wonderful place overlooking the valley. If the views weren't enough, we demolished Greek salad, haloumi cheese, tzatziki, and wine.  The service was also excellent - so good, in fact, that we went back a second night.

Our drive back to Athens took us to Lavrio, on the coast, where we attempted to have a seafood lunch; however, all the places were either closed for the season or opening at night. So we pushed down to Sounio to see the Temple of Poseidon overlooking the sea. It was quite a sight standing on the hilltop and we braved stiff winds to get there. A relaxing night in had us ready to fly.

We caught an early plane to Santorini the next morning.  If there is one place that is iconic to Greece, it must be the caldera views on Oia.  Everyone has seen the white marble homes with blue domes overlooking a brilliant sea.  And the best part is that this is exactly what it looks like when you arrive.  We drove in, first to the lighthouse on the southernmost point of the island for a hike above the sea, then down to the Red Beach for a look at the water.  Bother were stunning. When that wasn't enough, we stopped at Santo Wines for a tasting.  Now, people always talk about the food in Greece being amazing but I have never given much thought to the wine.  Was I every ignorant! The wine was amazing, and we quickly purchased several bottles.   The rest of the day was spent enjoying our cave house which not only had a room for the kids carved into the stone, but its very own hot tub for enjoying the views. A seafood dinner and catching one of the best sunsets ever capped off an amazing day!

Goofball kid copying dad

The next morning we were spoiled by a comprehensive breakfast before heading out to do some horseback riding.  Dad, of course, wanted to stop by the Santorini Brewing Company to sample, although we can't say it was anything to write home about. A hike around the peninsula, more seafood, more hot tub and wine, more sunsets...it wasn't hard to hang in Santorini.  There were very few people as we were in shoulder season, and I assume it would be a horrible mess at its peaks. 

We flew back to Athens and, after finding out there was a taxi strike, managed to figure out how to take a train into the city.  We emerged from the station in a total downpour and ran the (thankfully) 1 minute to our place, a lovely, large apartment right near the Acropolis. Friday was spent at the Acropolis, both the museum and on the slopes.  We climbed to the top for a view of the Parthenon, perhaps the most famous site in Greece.  Although we went early in the day, the tourists still mobbed the site and it felt crowded, though it can be far worse. Also near our house was the Temple of Zeus.  I had to pick up my packet for the race and the rest of the time we ate pasta and waited. 

The next morning, after a long bus ride,  I am sitting on the cold track of the Marathon town stadium, 25 miles from Athens, Greece. We will (roughly) retrace the route run by the messengers to Athens. The course itself is unimpressive; it runs between two iconic stadiums but every bit of it is just a paved suburban highway. Historic sites are off the path and the hilltops and valleys could be many places. But it is the novelty we seek: paying homage to the original route that started this madness. For me, it will be my 75th open (non-ultra, non-Ironman) full marathon. It is a loose milestone, not like 50 or 100, but the 75th has a bit of a draw.

I ran well, perhaps too fast for my training, and ended in 3:13 in the Olympic Stadium in Athens. It was nice to run the course that started this whole extravaganza.  But after some bubbly wine and a shower, we raced to the airport where two flights and a long connection awaited, only to arrive in the morning and go straight to work.  I can't say that was pleasant, but the memories of Greece will last far longer than the discomfort of that day.

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South Africa 2018 - The Return

South Africa was a wonderful place to live and we had four great years there. Returning for a holiday was amazing because we could take the highlights of our time living there and do a "Greatest Hits" trip.  It started by flying into Johannesburg.  We made our way directly to Riversands for some beer and pies. The place had changed a lot and what was once a shack by a river was now a happening boutique of stalls.  Taeyln tapped into biltong and kept at it for the week. Next we dropped by our old school and took a walk around. Much of it had been updated and looked very nice.  We finished the day at Papachinos, our old haunt where the kids made their own pizza, played on the structures, and we drank our cheap but amazing wine and had the obligatory bacon, avo, feta pizza.

The next day we were off to Ukatula, the lion preserve, to play with the lion and tiger cubs and see the other cats.  This is one of the best things to do in the area. The pictures cannot be beat. Where else can you hold a baby lion?!?

Soon we were flying out to George where we drove back to Knysna on the Garden Route.  This is probably the best part of the country.  We headed out to do some zip lining. The girls sailed down the lines and even picked up a chameleon for a ride. We went to the elephant reserve and walked with the giants in open fields, feeding and petting them.  Anyone who doesn't marvel at an elephant has never really been to Africa.

We drove the next day to Oudtshoorn for a tour of Highgate Ostrich Farm.  It starts with learning about the leather and feathers of the bird. Then we played with the babies before feeding the adults.  Not to be missed is the sitting on/riding of the ostrich.  We watched a jockey race and, of course, had ostrich for a meal. It is quite delicious. The only thing we missed out on this time was the standing on the egg which our entire family can do at once!

A long drive over the mountains brought us to Franschhoek, a beautiful mountain town know for its wine.  We stayed in an amazing house at the foot of the mountains near town.  The food was great, but the wine unstoppable.  A few tastings was all it took to know that South Africans still do some of the best wine in the world.

We spent the remaining days in Cape Town, walking the Waterfront and eating.  We returned to the Two Oceans Aquarium, but we were unable to go to Robbin Island. We headed out around the Cape Peninsula and stopped at Boulders Beach to walk with the penguins.

We ended the week with what we really came here to do: The Two Oceans Marathon.  The 56km tour of the peninsula is very pretty but extremely difficult.  The kids opted for a shorter version the day before and pounded out about a kilometer in the rain.  The weather, which had been great all week, turned ugly on the weekend. Luckily, it cleared in time for my run.  I finished in a respectable time, albeit slower than my previous attempts when living there. I was quite sore for the plane ride home.

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Amsterdam and Bruges

Priority number one of this fall trip was getting to the Amsterdam Marathon.  We flew in and did the expo and I ran the race on Sunday.  It was a beautiful course, winding though the city streets before heading out along the Amstel River. We then hooked back in along the canals and past the Heineken brewery.  The girls got to run their own races in the morning as well.

The next morning we were off to Bruges, our apartment nestled on the edge of a canal. Of first stop was to the Choco Story where we learned this history of the dish and, of course, ate a lot of it.  Having been in Belgium several hours already, we had to head to a beer cafe. Bruges was great for getting around; it isn't very big. All of us could get on bicycles and we rode out about 7 miles to a windmill and into a town for lunch. The ride back was more difficult for the kids, but they made it.  We also did a night walking tour and learned about the ghost stories of the village.  We saw several of the locations from the movie "In Bruges."  More beer. It was a great place to visit and we were sad to leave.

Our train took us back to Amsterdam.  The next day was packed with a boat canal tour through the city followed by a trip to the Heineken brewery.  While the boat tour is one of the gems of the city, the brewery tour left a lot to be desired. Still, beer fresh from the tap is always a little better. Our night ended with a dinner in a windmill-turned-brewery.

Weather had been great up till this point but then we hit a skid. As we walked to visit the Van Goh museum the next day, rain spat down on us.  After checking out hundreds of paintings, we rolled on to the Anne Frank House.  This is one of the coolest, if not saddest, exhibits in Europe.  Such great information and her story documented here. It is a book everyone should read and a place everyone should visit. The girls really identified with Anne and her family as they walked through the Annex.

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Germany - Oktoberfest

Would you believe it? Another trip to Germany. This time it was for the marathon. It just happened to be a big coincidence that Oktoberfest was going on at the same time!

We arrived in Nuremburg, the closest point for the race and spent a few days at Five Reasons Hostel & Hotel, situated within the walled city and overseen by the Imperial Castle. Hikes around town were greeted with great food and drink, especially at Hausbraurei Altstadthof, Café Wanderer, and BarfüsserBrauhaus.  We ventured deep into the underground caves to see the city below the city.  We also headed out to the Nazi Rally Grounds and Memorium of the Nuremberg Trials to get a taste of the significant history of the city. Such amazing and horrible things happened here and it is good to see that these sites haven't been destroyed. We learn more from being able to walk around than from stories or books.

The weekend concluded with an ill-advised marathon in a small, neighboring town. It was one of the prettiest races I have done.  But soon we were headed to Munich, with the running behind us, and a new kind of marathon looming ahead.

Oktoberfest is one of the world's most amazing events and we were drawn back. With kinds in tow this time, we opted for daytime visits on weekdays, making it easy to get a seat and less likely to run into any problems. Of course, we all showed up in authentic lederhosen and drindl. Arriving on Monday morning around 11, we had our choice of tents. Opting for a place that is famous for chicken, we rolled in and sat down to the butter and herb roasted goodness that is Bavarian Hendl. Of course, we had to spot some pretzels as well as a great litre of brew. Seeing no reason not to bounce around and check out the other atmospheres, we went on to the next tent and the next. From Spatan to Hacker-Pschorr, to Hofbrauhaus we roamed.  The girls stopped for a gingerbread cookie which they demolished.  We lost Sarah for a bit but she resurfaced and we made our way home, job well done.

The next day we headed back for round 2, but this time meeting a couple we worked with in Doha. It was family day so the rides were half price.  With the promise of carnival rides, we got the kids back in for food and alternated rides with another tent and so on. Even at half prices the rides were expensive (and cheesy). But some tents had kids' areas and all had music so we were all entertained. Towards the afternoon we decided that Justin would go to the Bayern-Munich football game with Mike. We went and witnessed a historic game with Lewandowski scoring 5 goals in 9 min.

With Oktoberfest done and dusted, we rolled south into the Bavarian gem town of Fussen.  This is fairy tale kingdom and on the following day we went to Neuschwanstein Castle and
Hohenschwangau Castle and learned the history of King Ludwig II. These castles are amazing to see and provide great views.  After the castles we headed to a brewery.  Dinner and a few lead to a fine game of putt-putt out in the fields below the castle. Our base was the lovely Hotel Fantasia, a repeat stay and one of our favorite lodgings in the world. It is like its own fairy tale castle and garden at the base of the real castles.
Our final stop on the way out was Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a German town in northern Bavaria known for its medieval architecture. Half-timbered houses line the cobblestone lanes of its old town. The town walls include many preserved gate houses and towers, plus a covered walkway on top. One of our favorite sites in this town is a medieval crime and torture museum, complete with swords, masks, and other devices. At night we joined the famous Night Watchman tour. A guy dresses in a holocaust cloak and wields a giant ax-like weapon as he wanders through the streets describing life as it was in medieval times. It is really a fun addition to a great, classic city.

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Paris and Brussels

Though we went for the marathon, it wasn't all business in Paris. We posed in front of the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, and The Louvre for pictures on a cold and windy day. We also headed to Disneyland Paris for a flair of the magic, European style.  It was pretty much everything we remember Disney being, if not just a little smaller, but by arriving early, we never had much waiting to do.

The day before the race the girls ran their own race. At 1.2km, this was the farthest they had ever had to run. Facepaint and music pumped them up, but at the last minute Kaelia had a meltdown and cried. Taelyn took off and finished well.  Kaelia cried and slogged most of the way before rallying.  Finally, the reason for the visit, the marathon: Justin took off with another guy and they talked and ran together for 20 miles.  Since he wasn't in prime shape, that was the limit, and at 22 miles Justin did some damage control to bring it in, albeit slowly.

With the running nonsense out of the way, we headed by train to Brussels - the land of beer, chocolate, and waffles!

One unique stop was the Atonium, a large, metal structure that has information inside. Built for the 1958 World Exhibition, the Atomium is shaped on the model of an elementary iron crystal enlarged 165 billion times.  We didn't go in, but pictures in front were odd enough. Adjacent to this was Mini Europe, a crazy miniature replica of many of the buildings of the continent in scale size sprawled out on some putt-putt course looking land.  After a walk through here we ended in the water park for some slides and fun.

Most of our time was spent hunting out great beer spots.  We frequented Delirium, a popular one and perhaps the place with the most beer in the world (over 3000). We tried the Chevalier or "yard" of beer at the Raven and hit up places that were hundreds of years old. Amidst the hanging marionnettes at Estaminet Toone as well. We had fancy ones and good food on the plaza in front of the Grand Palace.

The girls had fun doing a city scavenger hunt and looking for the famous peeing statues. The most famous, Manneken Pis is of a boy peeing into a fountain. He has a sister, Jeanneke Pis, is squatting just in front of the Delirium Cafe. And the last, Zinneke Pis, is a dog on a street corner.

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