We made it back to Germany, this time without kids and with some friends. AES members joined us as well as our good buddy David from the USA. We had an amazing time.
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Showing posts with label Germany. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Germany. Show all posts
Tuesday, October 2, 2018
Sunday, January 7, 2018
European Christmas 2017
Fresh off the plane and back in Germany - there isn't a better way to kick off Christmas than flying down the autobahn. First stop: Rothenburg ob der Tauber, the medieval gem in Bavaria. We met up with our good friends, The Jettners, and proceeded to the Christmas markets, enjoying shopping and mulled wine. We visited the Medieval Torture Museum again and did the night walk of the city.
Our next stop was Nuremberg, home to Germany's largest Christmas market. The people here were plentiful and space was tight, but the vast size is something to marvel at. We ate and drank our way around the stalls, meeting up with a family from Qatar. Jared, Kris and I all watched Michigan State hand out some punishment on the basketball court. After a day of fun, we rolled down to Munich and stayed put for a few days. Munich offers multiple markets and we enjoyed the size and speed of the Marienplatz while also having fun with parades, musics, and drinks of fire at the medieval market.
On Christmas Eve we headed to Hofbrauhaus, the world famous beer hall, for a mid-afternoon dinner. The place was so busy we had to sit at multiple tables as we had nearly 20 people. It was loud and hectic, but the beer flowed like wine and the food and music made up for the discomfort. After we headed to the hotel and did a gift exchange with all the friends who had joined and gotten gifts for each other from the markets. The girls got pajamas and watched a movie.
On Christmas morning we awoke and did presents under the small tree we had purchased in the square. Then we headed down to the Jettners room to do an exchange with them. But after breakfast it was off to our favorite activity to do on Christmas: the water park. Since nothing else is open that day, what better way to spend it than ripping down slides, floating in lazy rivers, and soaking in hot tubs? Our evening finished by reuniting with all of our friends at Augustiner Brauhaus for dinner.
The Walkers and the Jettners said goodbye and flew to Chamonix, France, to spend the week in the mountains. A winter wonderland awaited, with gorgeous views of the mountains all around. Evenings were spent walking the streets and tucking into pubs to keep warm while the day time was filled with activities. Skiing was a hit and we spent several days on the slopes, with Taelyn getting much better by then end. She could even go down the largest and longest of hills and was keen to work on the ski jumps (and crashing). Kaelia was more reserved and opted to sled - Sarah had no objections joining her. Sledding was also fun and we found several great hills to go down around town. We ice skated at the foot of a mountain.
Our biggest disaster was trying to go tubing. On day one, we drove around following Google Maps to the site. It took about an hour and we kept climbing up and up the mountain. It never felt right. When a road terminated on the ski slope and we had 5K left to drive, we knew it was not right. This place was on the mountain top. There were no directions. The next day we went to the hill via bus as the parking was insane. Jammed a million people into a bus, we made about 70 stops from our house to the hill then got in a long line for the cable car to the top. We repeatedly asked about tubing and the operators called the top to be sure it was on; it was. We paid about 70 Euros to get a lift ticket and we were off. When we reached the top, there were no indicators of where to go, no signs. Just a huge, white mountain top. We asked and asked but no one knew or just didn't understand. The rudest French people we ever met were the ski instructors who could not be bothered by us. So we started walking. After tramping through the snow with the kids for a long while, we thought we saw a park for tubing. It was down a long, ungroomed hill. Kris went ahead, ducked into a lodge-like structure and asked. He gave the thumbs up. We battled down the hill in waist-deep snow, soaking ourselves (I only had on shoes - the last time I would make that mistake). When we got there, tubes were piled together and buried in 4 feet of snow. The course to go down was ungroomed, the belt to the top was not visible, and it was clear that there was no tubing happening here. Soaked, cold, and tired, we headed down the mountain. We took the kids inside a care for hot chocolate and we had a beer while Sarah battled with the operator for 30 min to get a refund for our wasted trip. We headed home, gased. The Jettners wanted to ski. Hours later we saw them return, soaked from the rain, not happy. We might have made the better choice that day.
Another highlight was dog sledding. We met the dogs and hooked up the sleds for a 5km ride around the park at the foot of the mountains. It was a wonderful time, cruising along the snow with white mountains above, green trees, blue skies, and the sounds of the dogs barking. It is an expensive activity, but worth it 100%.
Kris and I also took in a hockey game watching the local team battle Grenoble. It was a fun experience and we were definitely one of the few non-locals there. Most of the time this week was spent outside and the kids had snowball fights, built forts, and rolled snowmen. We had a wonderful New Year's Eve. Nicole made a task for the kids for every hour (ex. have a tea party for the stuffed animals, do compliment cards, create a skit, etc.) and we all stayed up together for the New Year. Fireworks went off in the valley. I don't think I have made midnight on New Years in a long time!
The Jettners departed and we had a few more days as a family in Chamonix. It was hard to leave and after a long, wet drive, we arrived in Zurich. Our only purpose in coming here was to fly out, but we had a couple of days to kill. The food and beer places were nice, but the cost of eating out in Zurich is so insane that it was a tough sell. We did an escape room and hit the pool, went for some runs, and took the kids to the playground. To say we did anything in the city would be a massive oversell.
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| Rothenburg at night |
Our next stop was Nuremberg, home to Germany's largest Christmas market. The people here were plentiful and space was tight, but the vast size is something to marvel at. We ate and drank our way around the stalls, meeting up with a family from Qatar. Jared, Kris and I all watched Michigan State hand out some punishment on the basketball court. After a day of fun, we rolled down to Munich and stayed put for a few days. Munich offers multiple markets and we enjoyed the size and speed of the Marienplatz while also having fun with parades, musics, and drinks of fire at the medieval market.
On Christmas Eve we headed to Hofbrauhaus, the world famous beer hall, for a mid-afternoon dinner. The place was so busy we had to sit at multiple tables as we had nearly 20 people. It was loud and hectic, but the beer flowed like wine and the food and music made up for the discomfort. After we headed to the hotel and did a gift exchange with all the friends who had joined and gotten gifts for each other from the markets. The girls got pajamas and watched a movie.
On Christmas morning we awoke and did presents under the small tree we had purchased in the square. Then we headed down to the Jettners room to do an exchange with them. But after breakfast it was off to our favorite activity to do on Christmas: the water park. Since nothing else is open that day, what better way to spend it than ripping down slides, floating in lazy rivers, and soaking in hot tubs? Our evening finished by reuniting with all of our friends at Augustiner Brauhaus for dinner.
The Walkers and the Jettners said goodbye and flew to Chamonix, France, to spend the week in the mountains. A winter wonderland awaited, with gorgeous views of the mountains all around. Evenings were spent walking the streets and tucking into pubs to keep warm while the day time was filled with activities. Skiing was a hit and we spent several days on the slopes, with Taelyn getting much better by then end. She could even go down the largest and longest of hills and was keen to work on the ski jumps (and crashing). Kaelia was more reserved and opted to sled - Sarah had no objections joining her. Sledding was also fun and we found several great hills to go down around town. We ice skated at the foot of a mountain.
Our biggest disaster was trying to go tubing. On day one, we drove around following Google Maps to the site. It took about an hour and we kept climbing up and up the mountain. It never felt right. When a road terminated on the ski slope and we had 5K left to drive, we knew it was not right. This place was on the mountain top. There were no directions. The next day we went to the hill via bus as the parking was insane. Jammed a million people into a bus, we made about 70 stops from our house to the hill then got in a long line for the cable car to the top. We repeatedly asked about tubing and the operators called the top to be sure it was on; it was. We paid about 70 Euros to get a lift ticket and we were off. When we reached the top, there were no indicators of where to go, no signs. Just a huge, white mountain top. We asked and asked but no one knew or just didn't understand. The rudest French people we ever met were the ski instructors who could not be bothered by us. So we started walking. After tramping through the snow with the kids for a long while, we thought we saw a park for tubing. It was down a long, ungroomed hill. Kris went ahead, ducked into a lodge-like structure and asked. He gave the thumbs up. We battled down the hill in waist-deep snow, soaking ourselves (I only had on shoes - the last time I would make that mistake). When we got there, tubes were piled together and buried in 4 feet of snow. The course to go down was ungroomed, the belt to the top was not visible, and it was clear that there was no tubing happening here. Soaked, cold, and tired, we headed down the mountain. We took the kids inside a care for hot chocolate and we had a beer while Sarah battled with the operator for 30 min to get a refund for our wasted trip. We headed home, gased. The Jettners wanted to ski. Hours later we saw them return, soaked from the rain, not happy. We might have made the better choice that day.
Another highlight was dog sledding. We met the dogs and hooked up the sleds for a 5km ride around the park at the foot of the mountains. It was a wonderful time, cruising along the snow with white mountains above, green trees, blue skies, and the sounds of the dogs barking. It is an expensive activity, but worth it 100%.
Kris and I also took in a hockey game watching the local team battle Grenoble. It was a fun experience and we were definitely one of the few non-locals there. Most of the time this week was spent outside and the kids had snowball fights, built forts, and rolled snowmen. We had a wonderful New Year's Eve. Nicole made a task for the kids for every hour (ex. have a tea party for the stuffed animals, do compliment cards, create a skit, etc.) and we all stayed up together for the New Year. Fireworks went off in the valley. I don't think I have made midnight on New Years in a long time!
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| Chamonix in Winter |
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| The view from our living room |
The Jettners departed and we had a few more days as a family in Chamonix. It was hard to leave and after a long, wet drive, we arrived in Zurich. Our only purpose in coming here was to fly out, but we had a couple of days to kill. The food and beer places were nice, but the cost of eating out in Zurich is so insane that it was a tough sell. We did an escape room and hit the pool, went for some runs, and took the kids to the playground. To say we did anything in the city would be a massive oversell.
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Wednesday, December 30, 2015
Christmas in Poland
We arrived in Krakow, Poland after an overnight flight with our friends, The Jettners (from South Africa/Saudi/Michigan). As a special Christmas treat, Justin hired a limo for a surprise and the group drove around town in style, sipping champagne. We ended at the Christmas Market in the main square, a village of stalls basked in Christmas lights across a square smelling of roasted meat, mulled wine, and with every trinket imaginable. After getting our fill of food, drink, and shopping, we headed out for a Mexican dinner, perfect for Poland.
Day 2 dawned with a trip to Park Wodny, an indoor waterpark. We then celebrated Ari's birthday by going to a natural history museum (some live animals), and dinner at the recommended Del Papa. The next day we visited the Rynek Underground, a museum of a partially preserved medieval city under the town square. Our evening capped off with a trip to Maze Krakow, an exciting role-playing game where you are locked in a room. You have 1 hour to find a bomb, disable it, and get out of the room. Using clues and items in the room, you must unlock doors, enter codes, and find secrets. It was like being in National Treasure.
Auschwitz was a haunting day. Sarah and I left the kids back and went on a tour, learning all about the atrocities of what people can do. We saw whole rooms of luggage, shoes, pots, glass, and combs collected from victims. The most disturbing was the one with human hair (no pictures allowed). More than a million people were killed at Auschwitz, and many of those at the largest camp Birkenau. We elected to skip this second and more graphic portion of the tour having been distressed enough by what we already had seen. As the Nazis destroyed all of the gas chambers hoping to cover evidence in the final days of the war, we only saw a reconstructed crematorium. Many women, children, and the elderly all arrived by trains after days of cramped, cold travel and were told they were going to shower. Instead they were gassed to death. After walking around, we decided that these people were perhaps the lucky ones, as the survivors were subjected to horrible work conditions, malnourishment, medical experiments, and torture before eventually scumming to conditions, disease, starvation, or execution. Pictures shows people surviving perhaps 2-3 years like this, but many dying within 1-3 months. It was an atrocity never to be repeated.
Aside from many trips to the Christmas Market, we also found some great places to enjoy a beverage. Beer Gallery is a fun little place with lots of Belgian beers. Another amazing place we found was the House of Beer with a display wall of bottles acting as a menu. On a chance, we passed by the T.E.A. Time Brewery which sported a fun bar above an underground tavern. For another taste of the microbrew scene we headed to C.K. Brower, a cool looking bar with about 5 beers of their own. I have to say, we were quite impressed with the level of craft brews in Poland. Another exciting option is the Wodka Cafe Bar. With more than 100 types of vodka on hand, you can sample any number of them for very cheap. Good luck.
On the way out of town we checked out the Wieliczka Saltmine, an underground network of caves carved out by 100+ years of mineral mining. While the history was exciting, perhaps the highlight was the girls being able to lick every wall in the place. We headed south to the mountains to visit Zakopane, Poland's Winter Capital. Unfortunately, there was no snow. That did not stop us from doing everything we wanted, just a bit abridged. Our base was the beautiful Aprtament Glaumor 1, one of the better places we have found on booking.com. Hitting the outdoors, skating is skating, and public rinks have bad ice no matter what. But when you get to do it with the mountains as a backdrop, it really doesn't matter the weather. We also went dog sledding. With no snow, we actually went dog carting. After meeting the dogs and getting to play with them a bit, we learned all about them. Then the dogs were hooked up to a cart and we took turns going around a small track with them pulling.
A similar experience was our trip on a horse-drawn sleigh. Large carts were pulled by horses and we ventured into the woods at night, Many stars glistened overhead and we stopped at the halfway point to have a drink - tea with vodka. We carted back, sipping wine from bottles and keeping warm, until we reached a lodge. Nestled into a wood cabin with sausages roasted over a fire, we were entertained by traditionally dressed men playing instruments around the fire pit.
Skiing was in serious jeopardy with the weather but bits of machine-made snow coated the lower slopes of the hill, enough for a few days of ski lessons for the girls. By the final day, Taelyn was going up and down on her own. We also found some sleds and hit the slops for good winter fun. While it wasn't ideal to miss out on snow at Christmas, we really lucked out by not having weather that was too cold to stop us from doing outdoor activities.
On the way home we had a long layover in Berlin. We embarked on a whirlwind tour, heading over to Checkpoint Charlie, Brandenburg Gate, and the Berlin Wall.
Day 2 dawned with a trip to Park Wodny, an indoor waterpark. We then celebrated Ari's birthday by going to a natural history museum (some live animals), and dinner at the recommended Del Papa. The next day we visited the Rynek Underground, a museum of a partially preserved medieval city under the town square. Our evening capped off with a trip to Maze Krakow, an exciting role-playing game where you are locked in a room. You have 1 hour to find a bomb, disable it, and get out of the room. Using clues and items in the room, you must unlock doors, enter codes, and find secrets. It was like being in National Treasure.
Auschwitz was a haunting day. Sarah and I left the kids back and went on a tour, learning all about the atrocities of what people can do. We saw whole rooms of luggage, shoes, pots, glass, and combs collected from victims. The most disturbing was the one with human hair (no pictures allowed). More than a million people were killed at Auschwitz, and many of those at the largest camp Birkenau. We elected to skip this second and more graphic portion of the tour having been distressed enough by what we already had seen. As the Nazis destroyed all of the gas chambers hoping to cover evidence in the final days of the war, we only saw a reconstructed crematorium. Many women, children, and the elderly all arrived by trains after days of cramped, cold travel and were told they were going to shower. Instead they were gassed to death. After walking around, we decided that these people were perhaps the lucky ones, as the survivors were subjected to horrible work conditions, malnourishment, medical experiments, and torture before eventually scumming to conditions, disease, starvation, or execution. Pictures shows people surviving perhaps 2-3 years like this, but many dying within 1-3 months. It was an atrocity never to be repeated.
Aside from many trips to the Christmas Market, we also found some great places to enjoy a beverage. Beer Gallery is a fun little place with lots of Belgian beers. Another amazing place we found was the House of Beer with a display wall of bottles acting as a menu. On a chance, we passed by the T.E.A. Time Brewery which sported a fun bar above an underground tavern. For another taste of the microbrew scene we headed to C.K. Brower, a cool looking bar with about 5 beers of their own. I have to say, we were quite impressed with the level of craft brews in Poland. Another exciting option is the Wodka Cafe Bar. With more than 100 types of vodka on hand, you can sample any number of them for very cheap. Good luck.
On the way out of town we checked out the Wieliczka Saltmine, an underground network of caves carved out by 100+ years of mineral mining. While the history was exciting, perhaps the highlight was the girls being able to lick every wall in the place. We headed south to the mountains to visit Zakopane, Poland's Winter Capital. Unfortunately, there was no snow. That did not stop us from doing everything we wanted, just a bit abridged. Our base was the beautiful Aprtament Glaumor 1, one of the better places we have found on booking.com. Hitting the outdoors, skating is skating, and public rinks have bad ice no matter what. But when you get to do it with the mountains as a backdrop, it really doesn't matter the weather. We also went dog sledding. With no snow, we actually went dog carting. After meeting the dogs and getting to play with them a bit, we learned all about them. Then the dogs were hooked up to a cart and we took turns going around a small track with them pulling.
A similar experience was our trip on a horse-drawn sleigh. Large carts were pulled by horses and we ventured into the woods at night, Many stars glistened overhead and we stopped at the halfway point to have a drink - tea with vodka. We carted back, sipping wine from bottles and keeping warm, until we reached a lodge. Nestled into a wood cabin with sausages roasted over a fire, we were entertained by traditionally dressed men playing instruments around the fire pit.
Skiing was in serious jeopardy with the weather but bits of machine-made snow coated the lower slopes of the hill, enough for a few days of ski lessons for the girls. By the final day, Taelyn was going up and down on her own. We also found some sleds and hit the slops for good winter fun. While it wasn't ideal to miss out on snow at Christmas, we really lucked out by not having weather that was too cold to stop us from doing outdoor activities.
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On the way home we had a long layover in Berlin. We embarked on a whirlwind tour, heading over to Checkpoint Charlie, Brandenburg Gate, and the Berlin Wall.
Sunday, September 27, 2015
Germany - Oktoberfest
Would you believe it? Another trip to Germany. This time it was for the marathon. It just happened to be a big coincidence that Oktoberfest was going on at the same time!
We arrived in Nuremburg, the closest point for the race and spent a few days at Five Reasons Hostel & Hotel, situated within the walled city and overseen by the Imperial Castle. Hikes around town were greeted with great food and drink, especially at Hausbraurei Altstadthof, Café Wanderer, and BarfüsserBrauhaus. We ventured deep into the underground caves to see the city below the city. We also headed out to the Nazi Rally Grounds and Memorium of the Nuremberg Trials to get a taste of the significant history of the city. Such amazing and horrible things happened here and it is good to see that these sites haven't been destroyed. We learn more from being able to walk around than from stories or books.
The weekend concluded with an ill-advised marathon in a small, neighboring town. It was one of the prettiest races I have done. But soon we were headed to Munich, with the running behind us, and a new kind of marathon looming ahead.
Oktoberfest is one of the world's most amazing events and we were drawn back. With kinds in tow this time, we opted for daytime visits on weekdays, making it easy to get a seat and less likely to run into any problems. Of course, we all showed up in authentic lederhosen and drindl. Arriving on Monday morning around 11, we had our choice of tents. Opting for a place that is famous for chicken, we rolled in and sat down to the butter and herb roasted goodness that is Bavarian Hendl. Of course, we had to spot some pretzels as well as a great litre of brew. Seeing no reason not to bounce around and check out the other atmospheres, we went on to the next tent and the next. From Spatan to Hacker-Pschorr, to Hofbrauhaus we roamed. The girls stopped for a gingerbread cookie which they demolished. We lost Sarah for a bit but she resurfaced and we made our way home, job well done.
The next day we headed back for round 2, but this time meeting a couple we worked with in Doha. It was family day so the rides were half price. With the promise of carnival rides, we got the kids back in for food and alternated rides with another tent and so on. Even at half prices the rides were expensive (and cheesy). But some tents had kids' areas and all had music so we were all entertained. Towards the afternoon we decided that Justin would go to the Bayern-Munich football game with Mike. We went and witnessed a historic game with Lewandowski scoring 5 goals in 9 min.
With Oktoberfest done and dusted, we rolled south into the Bavarian gem town of Fussen. This is fairy tale kingdom and on the following day we went to Neuschwanstein Castle and
Hohenschwangau Castle and learned the history of King Ludwig II. These castles are amazing to see and provide great views. After the castles we headed to a brewery. Dinner and a few lead to a fine game of putt-putt out in the fields below the castle. Our base was the lovely Hotel Fantasia, a repeat stay and one of our favorite lodgings in the world. It is like its own fairy tale castle and garden at the base of the real castles.
Our final stop on the way out was Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a German town in northern Bavaria known for its medieval architecture. Half-timbered houses line the cobblestone lanes of its old town. The town walls include many preserved gate houses and towers, plus a covered walkway on top. One of our favorite sites in this town is a medieval crime and torture museum, complete with swords, masks, and other devices. At night we joined the famous Night Watchman tour. A guy dresses in a holocaust cloak and wields a giant ax-like weapon as he wanders through the streets describing life as it was in medieval times. It is really a fun addition to a great, classic city.
We arrived in Nuremburg, the closest point for the race and spent a few days at Five Reasons Hostel & Hotel, situated within the walled city and overseen by the Imperial Castle. Hikes around town were greeted with great food and drink, especially at Hausbraurei Altstadthof, Café Wanderer, and BarfüsserBrauhaus. We ventured deep into the underground caves to see the city below the city. We also headed out to the Nazi Rally Grounds and Memorium of the Nuremberg Trials to get a taste of the significant history of the city. Such amazing and horrible things happened here and it is good to see that these sites haven't been destroyed. We learn more from being able to walk around than from stories or books.
The weekend concluded with an ill-advised marathon in a small, neighboring town. It was one of the prettiest races I have done. But soon we were headed to Munich, with the running behind us, and a new kind of marathon looming ahead.
Oktoberfest is one of the world's most amazing events and we were drawn back. With kinds in tow this time, we opted for daytime visits on weekdays, making it easy to get a seat and less likely to run into any problems. Of course, we all showed up in authentic lederhosen and drindl. Arriving on Monday morning around 11, we had our choice of tents. Opting for a place that is famous for chicken, we rolled in and sat down to the butter and herb roasted goodness that is Bavarian Hendl. Of course, we had to spot some pretzels as well as a great litre of brew. Seeing no reason not to bounce around and check out the other atmospheres, we went on to the next tent and the next. From Spatan to Hacker-Pschorr, to Hofbrauhaus we roamed. The girls stopped for a gingerbread cookie which they demolished. We lost Sarah for a bit but she resurfaced and we made our way home, job well done.
The next day we headed back for round 2, but this time meeting a couple we worked with in Doha. It was family day so the rides were half price. With the promise of carnival rides, we got the kids back in for food and alternated rides with another tent and so on. Even at half prices the rides were expensive (and cheesy). But some tents had kids' areas and all had music so we were all entertained. Towards the afternoon we decided that Justin would go to the Bayern-Munich football game with Mike. We went and witnessed a historic game with Lewandowski scoring 5 goals in 9 min.
With Oktoberfest done and dusted, we rolled south into the Bavarian gem town of Fussen. This is fairy tale kingdom and on the following day we went to Neuschwanstein Castle and
Hohenschwangau Castle and learned the history of King Ludwig II. These castles are amazing to see and provide great views. After the castles we headed to a brewery. Dinner and a few lead to a fine game of putt-putt out in the fields below the castle. Our base was the lovely Hotel Fantasia, a repeat stay and one of our favorite lodgings in the world. It is like its own fairy tale castle and garden at the base of the real castles.
Our final stop on the way out was Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a German town in northern Bavaria known for its medieval architecture. Half-timbered houses line the cobblestone lanes of its old town. The town walls include many preserved gate houses and towers, plus a covered walkway on top. One of our favorite sites in this town is a medieval crime and torture museum, complete with swords, masks, and other devices. At night we joined the famous Night Watchman tour. A guy dresses in a holocaust cloak and wields a giant ax-like weapon as he wanders through the streets describing life as it was in medieval times. It is really a fun addition to a great, classic city.
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Saturday, January 3, 2015
European Christmas 2014
Given our never-ending quest to now spend Christmas in Europe and enjoy the wonderful Christmas markets, we had to scheduled a trip to Munich, one of our favorite cities. Our choice to return to Germany has nothing to do with the beer, meat, or music. It was all about the holiday spirit. Really.
Staying in the Residence Inn Munich East, we were close to downtown (just a few minutes walk to a train and a couple of stops) and close to the English Gardens and a river trail which we ran everyday. Great runs were followed by great breakfast buffets. But what we really wanted was to take advantage of the Christmas markets. Full of the smells of cookies, spiced wine, and with holiday music in the air, the atmosphere can't be beat. However, the crowds leave something to be desired. With two little kids in tow, getting around jam-packed markets in the cold evening is not as enjoyable as one would like. We did enjoy a parade of characters like knights and drinking wine from goblets at the medieval Christmas market, but long lines and no space had us exit for a beer joint where we enjoyed sitting with some friends from Hong Kong we used to work with in Joburg.
No trip to Munich would be complete without visiting our favorite beer gardens and halls at places like Hofbrauhaus, Augustiner, and Paulaner. Good food, good drink, good music and good fun. We also ice skated in the square to music and smells of food and drink. The last highlight was spending the afternoon with our friends who live in Saudi but we worked with in China. But we soon were headed south to Austria on the autobahn in a rented car. Next stop: Obertraun.
Located in the beautiful Lake Hallstatt region, Obertraun is a gem. A crystal lake, high peaks, and the feel of being away from it all is spotted with little shops and restaurants and the perfect compliment to our first few days in the big city. Staying at Obertrauner Hof, we netted a great 2-bedroom place with breakfast and excellent hosts.
Wanting to take the girls sledding but having little snow, we took a cable car up to the top of the mountain over town, and hiked to a site called 5 Fingers. With amazing views, we were not disappointed, and the girls were able to rock down some slopes with an old wooden toboggan. Never mind that the drop offs on either side were about 1000 ft.
We then hit up a water park on Christmas day, as it was the only thing open. There is something quite amazing about being able to swim in 80-degree water and yet it is snowing outside. Your hair freezes but you are warm. Great slides kept us busy for a few hours and were a nice compliment to the Christmas movies we spent the rest of the day watching.
This trip marked our family's first skiing effort. After a ridiculous amount of waiting in line to get sized up for rentals, then another line for the lift tickets, we dropped the girls in ski school, which at 65 Euros an hour did not really count as school (going "down" this nearly flat piece of land and stepping on a belt to be rolled back. Lather, rinse, repeat.). Sarah and I headed up, spending 25 min on lifts to reach the top. This is when the problems started. Sarah cant ski. Not even remotely. And the first steps off the lift (the ones she didn't fall on) got us to a precipice overlooking a huge drop. It was scary, even for me, and I can ski. Sarah proceeded to flop gradually down the hill, crashing every few feet, and looking like a person with a severe muscular issue. Arguing ensued, and there was a very real reality that someone would have to sled her off the mountain. After threat of divorce and nearly 45 minutes later, Sarah was able to get to the final push. However, this too was a huge drop. She took of the skis and walked it down while I went on to pull the kids from "school" lest they charge us another year of tuition for going over. Sarah and the kids done, I tried to go up again to bring the cost-to-run ratio down to about 100 Euros a pop, but they were making snow. Having only skied in Colorado in sunglasses, I was blasted repeatedly in the face with ice and could not see. After getting down, it was time to call this what it was: a disaster. Needless to say, Walker family skiing isn't going to be repeated anytime soon.
A Christmas highlight was the horse-drawn sleigh ride. Starting in the town of Gosau, we rolled out through the fields under blankets and, as the sun set, up into the dark woods, stopping only once to do shots of home-made schnapps that were passed back by the driver. Sleigh bells and the sights of crisp, white snow completed a perfect evening.
Other highlights were running the trail that meandered the woods above our lodge. It was such a nice sight that we took the girls on a relatively long hike on it, stopping often. Not to be forgotten was the opportunity to build a snowman and have a snowball fight in front of the amazing Lake Hallstatt. The snow, which was absent at the start of the trip. Started on Christmas and got steadily heavier over the week. The day we left it was slamming, turning a 2.5 hour drive back to the airport into 5 hours, causing us to nearly miss our flight. But I will say if I have to get stuck somewhere, you can sign me up for Munich and Austria anytime.
Staying in the Residence Inn Munich East, we were close to downtown (just a few minutes walk to a train and a couple of stops) and close to the English Gardens and a river trail which we ran everyday. Great runs were followed by great breakfast buffets. But what we really wanted was to take advantage of the Christmas markets. Full of the smells of cookies, spiced wine, and with holiday music in the air, the atmosphere can't be beat. However, the crowds leave something to be desired. With two little kids in tow, getting around jam-packed markets in the cold evening is not as enjoyable as one would like. We did enjoy a parade of characters like knights and drinking wine from goblets at the medieval Christmas market, but long lines and no space had us exit for a beer joint where we enjoyed sitting with some friends from Hong Kong we used to work with in Joburg.
No trip to Munich would be complete without visiting our favorite beer gardens and halls at places like Hofbrauhaus, Augustiner, and Paulaner. Good food, good drink, good music and good fun. We also ice skated in the square to music and smells of food and drink. The last highlight was spending the afternoon with our friends who live in Saudi but we worked with in China. But we soon were headed south to Austria on the autobahn in a rented car. Next stop: Obertraun.
Located in the beautiful Lake Hallstatt region, Obertraun is a gem. A crystal lake, high peaks, and the feel of being away from it all is spotted with little shops and restaurants and the perfect compliment to our first few days in the big city. Staying at Obertrauner Hof, we netted a great 2-bedroom place with breakfast and excellent hosts.
We then hit up a water park on Christmas day, as it was the only thing open. There is something quite amazing about being able to swim in 80-degree water and yet it is snowing outside. Your hair freezes but you are warm. Great slides kept us busy for a few hours and were a nice compliment to the Christmas movies we spent the rest of the day watching.
This trip marked our family's first skiing effort. After a ridiculous amount of waiting in line to get sized up for rentals, then another line for the lift tickets, we dropped the girls in ski school, which at 65 Euros an hour did not really count as school (going "down" this nearly flat piece of land and stepping on a belt to be rolled back. Lather, rinse, repeat.). Sarah and I headed up, spending 25 min on lifts to reach the top. This is when the problems started. Sarah cant ski. Not even remotely. And the first steps off the lift (the ones she didn't fall on) got us to a precipice overlooking a huge drop. It was scary, even for me, and I can ski. Sarah proceeded to flop gradually down the hill, crashing every few feet, and looking like a person with a severe muscular issue. Arguing ensued, and there was a very real reality that someone would have to sled her off the mountain. After threat of divorce and nearly 45 minutes later, Sarah was able to get to the final push. However, this too was a huge drop. She took of the skis and walked it down while I went on to pull the kids from "school" lest they charge us another year of tuition for going over. Sarah and the kids done, I tried to go up again to bring the cost-to-run ratio down to about 100 Euros a pop, but they were making snow. Having only skied in Colorado in sunglasses, I was blasted repeatedly in the face with ice and could not see. After getting down, it was time to call this what it was: a disaster. Needless to say, Walker family skiing isn't going to be repeated anytime soon.
A Christmas highlight was the horse-drawn sleigh ride. Starting in the town of Gosau, we rolled out through the fields under blankets and, as the sun set, up into the dark woods, stopping only once to do shots of home-made schnapps that were passed back by the driver. Sleigh bells and the sights of crisp, white snow completed a perfect evening.
Other highlights were running the trail that meandered the woods above our lodge. It was such a nice sight that we took the girls on a relatively long hike on it, stopping often. Not to be forgotten was the opportunity to build a snowman and have a snowball fight in front of the amazing Lake Hallstatt. The snow, which was absent at the start of the trip. Started on Christmas and got steadily heavier over the week. The day we left it was slamming, turning a 2.5 hour drive back to the airport into 5 hours, causing us to nearly miss our flight. But I will say if I have to get stuck somewhere, you can sign me up for Munich and Austria anytime.
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| Free digital scrapbooking design made with Smilebox |
Monday, September 23, 2013
Oktoberfest 2013
This is the story of three Oktoberfests. Hang tight and watch the German unfold.
Part I: September, Pretoria.
Sarah, the girls and I all rolled up to Pretoria to the German school because a school is the most appropriate place to hold a beer festival, right? But like any good Oktoberfest, it wasn’t all about the beer. They had face painting, paintball, carnival rides, and snacks. The girls got nice face painting and hopped on some ponies. They found a girl dressed up in German flare and mistook her for Dorthy from the Wizard of Oz, demanding a photo. Soon we migrated to the large tent where music and food were plentiful. While the beer was just local microbrews, the food packed all the punch of a good festival. We ate and sampled the beer, finishing the evening with Taelyn conquering the mechanical bull.
Part II: September, Munich, Germany.
Sarah and I have longed to attend the true festival in Bavaria for years. Every year there has been an excuse not to go, but this year we pulled out all the stops and made it happen. Catching a red-eye to Paris, we hopped over to Munich from South Africa on a Friday night. Arriving at our hotel around 10:30 in the morning left us time to work our way to the Therenweisen, the large park that hosts Oktoberfest every year. But before I tell what we did, I will give you the guidebook overview of how it works, so that when I talk about our trip, I can segue seamlessly from event to event without having to provide the background context.
The Tents:
To say that the festival is a series of tents would be misleading. The 14 BIG tents and many more smaller tents are actually buildings. They are supported by large beams of wood and iron, and even walled in many places. With elaborate decorations both inside and out, these do not resemble anything you would camp in nor do they look like the circus big top. In fact, the structure actually comes closer to being a wonderfully decorated warehouse, holding between 6,000-10,000 people. Every table is essentially a picnic table with benches on either side – some long, some short. They are heavily packed together on the main floor of widely spaced in the boxes and balconies that exist in the large tents.
Built on permanent pavement foundations, these tents start going up about 3 months before the festival are in full swing for the 16 day event, and take about 1 more month to deconstruct. Huge amounts of space are required to store the materials for the tents the remainder of the year. It is estimated that a tent costs about 2 million Euros to operate while the net profits end up being about 2 million. Seats are mostly reserved on the balconies and boxes, meaning that someone must specifically write (and sometimes actually write a letter, not an internet submission) to the operators of the tents and “reserve” a seat. Tables are booked in two periods – from about 11-4 and from 5-close. During this time, you must commit to 10 chicken dishes and 20 liters of beer (paid in advance). That works out to about 2L and 1 chicken per person for a group of 10, though many tables are booked for less and the patrons gladly consume the excess. Sometime people book the same table every year. Other times people book a table for both sessions, staying all day with various friends joining and leaving throughout the time. However, reserved or unreserved, you must have a seat (even if you are standing on it) to be allowed to order a beer. So while many people walk into a tent to search for a seat or experience the atmosphere, none will be served unless they have a spot on a bench. Outside the tents are beer gardens. These are a continuation of the inside tables, though often without cover, no live music, and a much more touristy crowd.
The Drink:
Each tent serves only one kind of beer (ex., Paulaner, Augustiener, Hofbrau, Spaten, etc.) and that beer is a specially brewed Oktoberfest which is similar to a Helles (a light, drinkable brew) but runs at about 6% ABV. They say that the beer does not give hangovers though at the rate that some put them back, it would be hard not to think otherwise. About 7 million people visit Oktoberfest over the 16 days and about 7 million liters of beer are consumed on site, averaging out to about 1 per person. However, given that many people are there to enjoy the rides, see the sites, and do no choose to drink (i.e., many children or elderly people), a large compensations happens for those in the tents. Beer is served in thick, 1 liter glass steins (called a “mass”) which are very heavy, even without the liquid. The beer waitresses carry up to 10 of these at a time (the men 12) showing amazing strength. A glass of beer costs an outstanding 9.80 Euros, and with a 1-2 Euro tip for the maid, you best save up for a day of drinking in the tents.
In some tents, you will only find the beer as an option. In others, non-alcoholic versions are served, and some aficionados go one-for-one (one alcohol followed by one non-alcoholic) in order to pace themselves through the whole day and night. Since it is said you are not to ever drink alone, you are repeatedly hoisting your glass to respond to the ever present toast of “Prost!” while the band will play “Ein Prosit” about once every 10 min as well, keeping the beer going down at a steady rate. Those feeling a bit frisky will try the Raddler, a mix of beer and lemonade offered in some tents. Soda and water is also available for those not drinking or needing a break.
The Food:
When you spend all day in a tent, you eat, or you perish. While sausage is most associated with Oktoberfest, there are actually very few floating around. The sausage of choice is a nice, white, boiled link served in a beer stein of hot water. But far and away the hit of the show is the Hendle, the Bavarian roasted chicken. Served as half a chicken coated in butter and spices, this rotisserie delight is the talk of the tents. Melting in your mouth, it does not disappoint and when eaten, the rest of the table stares on while the lucky consumer devours it before their eyes. Many more are ordered after watching this spectacle. It is said that about 500,000 chickens are served up during Oktoberfest.
Tents are famous for their food as well as beer. Some offer fish on a stick, duck, and in one case, a fully roasted pig. Other food can also be found if you are lucky enough to score an English menu. This food can be found inside tents and out, in addition to fries, hamburgers, and other snacks at many of the stalls along the road. But in the tents, one should also not miss the large pretzels, or Brezel. The size of and NFL lineman’s head, this soft bread is excellent for soaking up the liquids consumed in abundance.
How it all went down:
Sarah and I took a train from our hotel to the festival. With each stop, more and more people got on the train wearing the traditional lederhosen and drindle costumes, until they were stuffing on the subway by the hundreds. The five stops before the grounds all had security lining people up and sorting them onto the train – German efficiency at its best. Finally we reached the end and piled out with the masses to the stairs and escalators (all going up) took us by the hundreds up to the surface. Make no mistake, when you stepped off the escalator, you were in Oktoberfest. Literally, the top of the escalator was in the park, and you were surrounded by Bavarian celebration. We worked our way down the crowded streets (yes, this is so big it has streets in a park) to the far end. Most people were eagerly waiting for the parade to come through. Not having a reserved seat, we elected to push to a tent and lock one down before the festivities truly started, about 1.5 hours in the future. Each tent has a big front entrance but most don’t use them, and soon we found the secret side entrance that allows people in.
Immediately we were facing 10,000 people, and every seat was filled. We walked up and down asiles, unsure on how to secure the coveted spot. People had us paranoid saying that we would never get in without a reservation, and if we did, we would have 1 hour lines. Well, Sarah cornered a waitress who took her up into the private boxes. When I tried to follow, security headed me off and it took some convincing charades to persuade them to let me by (no bracelet, no reserved seat). The waitress dropped us off at a table full of locals who had booked two tables for the whole day but weren’t using all the seats until later. So they let us take a spot. It turned out to be the best luck in the world.
Beer is not served until 12:00 noon on the first day once the mayor of Munich (in the next tent over) has tapped the ceremonial keg. So we had an hour to kill eating sausages (no chicken until noon either). A mighty cheer went up as the band entered the tent a paraded around the perimeter for about 15 minutes. They were followed by a procession of important-looking people, including the tent owner who was met with much applause. They carried a large flag and had an entourage of about 100 people. Just before 12, a person welcomed the crowd and started a countdown (in German) as if it was New Year’s Eve. When the clock struck 12, the place went wild and immediately, waitresses were carting handfuls of beer to eager tables. A yelp of anticipation came each time the waitress approached, only to be met with a moan when she stopped at a neighboring table. Around 45 minutes later, Sarah and I finally grasped the handles of our beers and took the first, delicious sips. Prost!
The band kicked up the Ompah music and toasts and good wishes were exchanged periodically. Every so often, a German resident would come sit next to us and chat for a while. They were all extremely nice and did their best to include us, even though we couldn’t understand their exchanges. The two we were closest with, Clause and Hans, gave us much info on the tent, including how they are owned, run, built, and stored. The “owner” of our table had been renting it for 17 years and invited many of the same people back each time. Pretzel would show up and shared as a generous person would buy them for the table. Later, the table owner came back with roses for all of the ladies, including Sarah. It was a great experience sitting with the locals for about 6 hours and learning so much. Overall, the tent was relatively mild for having 10,000 people in it. Songs were sung, and some of the typical bravado was done (I’ll get into that), but in comparison to other tents, it was much more of a local hangout, true to good music and good people.
We said our goodbyes just before 5pm (having been kicked out due to the tables turning over from the afternoon to evening session). So we headed out into the busy streets and ended up just one or two tents over at Spaten. There was a line and we figured we would have to wait. But little by little people were seeping in and within 5 min, Sarah and I were in a beer garden. The hostess showed us to a table of Canadians and Australians and we were welcomed. It soon became painstakingly apparent that we were the oldest ones there. A guy next to us was dubbed “Grandpa” as he was far older than the rest (at the age of 30) and most of them were 20 or 21. Within the hour a few were leaning on our backs, others passed out on the table. One guy was hanging all over a girl and they apparently “married” earlier that day – she was German and 16 – he was Canadian and 21, a lasting relationship no doubt. We called it good after a few hours there and stumbled to the carnival rides, always a great decision after a day of drinking. After spending far too many Euros and wandering around in a lame and pointless amusement house, we emerged, calling it a day.
After a few beers, getting home on the subway was a challenge. Justin opted to be passive and let Sarah guide the way. However, Sarah did not know the correct route so the Walkers bounced up and down the train tracks. It was not Justin’s proudest moment. But they made it home to retire.
The next morning dawned early. A quick breakfast, check-out, and back to the grounds for round 2! While sitting in the metro station not a single other person was there. Do you know how weird it is to be in a subway station alone? It was creepy.
Augustiner was Justin’s favorite beer place the last time we were in Munich so we went to this hall at about 8:30am. No one seemed to be there, which was odd. We met a guy wearing a Michigan sweatshirt (surprise, surprise, he didn’t actually go to Michigan, just like 98% of people who wear that gear) and invited him to join us. Justin wandered around the back of the building and found why we were only standing with a few people in front – hundreds had already joined a line at the side. We waited 10 minutes and burst into the hall just after 9am, grabbing a prime seat next to the beer. The next few hours we talked and listened to house music, munching on pretzels and toasting new comers to the table. Some girls from Brazil sat next to us, and when they left, a group of crazy men from Italy scooted in. While we couldn’t understand much, we gathered that they were friends and one of them played professional soccer in Italy. Chicken for lunch and around 2pm we said our goodbyes, eager to see the rest of the fair before leaving for the airport.
We walked the midway, buying cookies for the girls, and went down to the Hippodrom, the hopping party tent at the end of the strip. It was a packed, wild, madhouse. This is where later that week Usain Bolt and Samuel L. Jackson were spotted, as are most celebrities that frequent the fair. Overwhelmed by the intensity, we rolled on to Hofbrauhouse, one of the biggest and most touristy. We were not disappointed. In stark contrast to the tranquil environment of the tents filled by locals, this one had most people standing on the tables, beer flying through the air, glasses smashing onto the floor (and each other) and people getting tossed out). I think the only German’s in there were the ones serving beer. We asked if we could slide in with some Australians and ended up standing with them (as the benches and tables were covered in beer). Sarah was a bit over the all-day drinking and soon we called it a day, needing to make our way to the airport for our return flight. It is a miracle we made it, and after alternating naps in the airport, boarded our plane back to Johannesburg, rounding out the 20 hour plane trip for the 36 hours of all-out Oktoberfest fun. And in truth, I wouldn’t have done it any other way!
Part III: October, Johannesburg, South Africa
In an anticlimactic event, we rolled into the annual Bierfest at Montecasino. Give other competing events, we went on a Sunday afternoon. The beer, though brewed in a German style, is actually South African, and the food is terrible, unless you like polony, stale pretzels, and hardened cheese. The music alternates between traditional music and modern covers, but the toast is said no less than 500 times. While we have had some fun there in the past, I realize as I write this up that it in no way deserves the space of the true Oktoberfest. I am always on the lookout for fun events like this, but I don’t recommend going if you have managed to hit up Munich in September the same year.
Part I: September, Pretoria.
Sarah, the girls and I all rolled up to Pretoria to the German school because a school is the most appropriate place to hold a beer festival, right? But like any good Oktoberfest, it wasn’t all about the beer. They had face painting, paintball, carnival rides, and snacks. The girls got nice face painting and hopped on some ponies. They found a girl dressed up in German flare and mistook her for Dorthy from the Wizard of Oz, demanding a photo. Soon we migrated to the large tent where music and food were plentiful. While the beer was just local microbrews, the food packed all the punch of a good festival. We ate and sampled the beer, finishing the evening with Taelyn conquering the mechanical bull.
Part II: September, Munich, Germany.
Sarah and I have longed to attend the true festival in Bavaria for years. Every year there has been an excuse not to go, but this year we pulled out all the stops and made it happen. Catching a red-eye to Paris, we hopped over to Munich from South Africa on a Friday night. Arriving at our hotel around 10:30 in the morning left us time to work our way to the Therenweisen, the large park that hosts Oktoberfest every year. But before I tell what we did, I will give you the guidebook overview of how it works, so that when I talk about our trip, I can segue seamlessly from event to event without having to provide the background context.
The Tents:
To say that the festival is a series of tents would be misleading. The 14 BIG tents and many more smaller tents are actually buildings. They are supported by large beams of wood and iron, and even walled in many places. With elaborate decorations both inside and out, these do not resemble anything you would camp in nor do they look like the circus big top. In fact, the structure actually comes closer to being a wonderfully decorated warehouse, holding between 6,000-10,000 people. Every table is essentially a picnic table with benches on either side – some long, some short. They are heavily packed together on the main floor of widely spaced in the boxes and balconies that exist in the large tents.
Built on permanent pavement foundations, these tents start going up about 3 months before the festival are in full swing for the 16 day event, and take about 1 more month to deconstruct. Huge amounts of space are required to store the materials for the tents the remainder of the year. It is estimated that a tent costs about 2 million Euros to operate while the net profits end up being about 2 million. Seats are mostly reserved on the balconies and boxes, meaning that someone must specifically write (and sometimes actually write a letter, not an internet submission) to the operators of the tents and “reserve” a seat. Tables are booked in two periods – from about 11-4 and from 5-close. During this time, you must commit to 10 chicken dishes and 20 liters of beer (paid in advance). That works out to about 2L and 1 chicken per person for a group of 10, though many tables are booked for less and the patrons gladly consume the excess. Sometime people book the same table every year. Other times people book a table for both sessions, staying all day with various friends joining and leaving throughout the time. However, reserved or unreserved, you must have a seat (even if you are standing on it) to be allowed to order a beer. So while many people walk into a tent to search for a seat or experience the atmosphere, none will be served unless they have a spot on a bench. Outside the tents are beer gardens. These are a continuation of the inside tables, though often without cover, no live music, and a much more touristy crowd.
The Drink:
Each tent serves only one kind of beer (ex., Paulaner, Augustiener, Hofbrau, Spaten, etc.) and that beer is a specially brewed Oktoberfest which is similar to a Helles (a light, drinkable brew) but runs at about 6% ABV. They say that the beer does not give hangovers though at the rate that some put them back, it would be hard not to think otherwise. About 7 million people visit Oktoberfest over the 16 days and about 7 million liters of beer are consumed on site, averaging out to about 1 per person. However, given that many people are there to enjoy the rides, see the sites, and do no choose to drink (i.e., many children or elderly people), a large compensations happens for those in the tents. Beer is served in thick, 1 liter glass steins (called a “mass”) which are very heavy, even without the liquid. The beer waitresses carry up to 10 of these at a time (the men 12) showing amazing strength. A glass of beer costs an outstanding 9.80 Euros, and with a 1-2 Euro tip for the maid, you best save up for a day of drinking in the tents.
In some tents, you will only find the beer as an option. In others, non-alcoholic versions are served, and some aficionados go one-for-one (one alcohol followed by one non-alcoholic) in order to pace themselves through the whole day and night. Since it is said you are not to ever drink alone, you are repeatedly hoisting your glass to respond to the ever present toast of “Prost!” while the band will play “Ein Prosit” about once every 10 min as well, keeping the beer going down at a steady rate. Those feeling a bit frisky will try the Raddler, a mix of beer and lemonade offered in some tents. Soda and water is also available for those not drinking or needing a break.
The Food:
When you spend all day in a tent, you eat, or you perish. While sausage is most associated with Oktoberfest, there are actually very few floating around. The sausage of choice is a nice, white, boiled link served in a beer stein of hot water. But far and away the hit of the show is the Hendle, the Bavarian roasted chicken. Served as half a chicken coated in butter and spices, this rotisserie delight is the talk of the tents. Melting in your mouth, it does not disappoint and when eaten, the rest of the table stares on while the lucky consumer devours it before their eyes. Many more are ordered after watching this spectacle. It is said that about 500,000 chickens are served up during Oktoberfest.
Tents are famous for their food as well as beer. Some offer fish on a stick, duck, and in one case, a fully roasted pig. Other food can also be found if you are lucky enough to score an English menu. This food can be found inside tents and out, in addition to fries, hamburgers, and other snacks at many of the stalls along the road. But in the tents, one should also not miss the large pretzels, or Brezel. The size of and NFL lineman’s head, this soft bread is excellent for soaking up the liquids consumed in abundance.
How it all went down:
Sarah and I took a train from our hotel to the festival. With each stop, more and more people got on the train wearing the traditional lederhosen and drindle costumes, until they were stuffing on the subway by the hundreds. The five stops before the grounds all had security lining people up and sorting them onto the train – German efficiency at its best. Finally we reached the end and piled out with the masses to the stairs and escalators (all going up) took us by the hundreds up to the surface. Make no mistake, when you stepped off the escalator, you were in Oktoberfest. Literally, the top of the escalator was in the park, and you were surrounded by Bavarian celebration. We worked our way down the crowded streets (yes, this is so big it has streets in a park) to the far end. Most people were eagerly waiting for the parade to come through. Not having a reserved seat, we elected to push to a tent and lock one down before the festivities truly started, about 1.5 hours in the future. Each tent has a big front entrance but most don’t use them, and soon we found the secret side entrance that allows people in.
Immediately we were facing 10,000 people, and every seat was filled. We walked up and down asiles, unsure on how to secure the coveted spot. People had us paranoid saying that we would never get in without a reservation, and if we did, we would have 1 hour lines. Well, Sarah cornered a waitress who took her up into the private boxes. When I tried to follow, security headed me off and it took some convincing charades to persuade them to let me by (no bracelet, no reserved seat). The waitress dropped us off at a table full of locals who had booked two tables for the whole day but weren’t using all the seats until later. So they let us take a spot. It turned out to be the best luck in the world.
Beer is not served until 12:00 noon on the first day once the mayor of Munich (in the next tent over) has tapped the ceremonial keg. So we had an hour to kill eating sausages (no chicken until noon either). A mighty cheer went up as the band entered the tent a paraded around the perimeter for about 15 minutes. They were followed by a procession of important-looking people, including the tent owner who was met with much applause. They carried a large flag and had an entourage of about 100 people. Just before 12, a person welcomed the crowd and started a countdown (in German) as if it was New Year’s Eve. When the clock struck 12, the place went wild and immediately, waitresses were carting handfuls of beer to eager tables. A yelp of anticipation came each time the waitress approached, only to be met with a moan when she stopped at a neighboring table. Around 45 minutes later, Sarah and I finally grasped the handles of our beers and took the first, delicious sips. Prost!
The band kicked up the Ompah music and toasts and good wishes were exchanged periodically. Every so often, a German resident would come sit next to us and chat for a while. They were all extremely nice and did their best to include us, even though we couldn’t understand their exchanges. The two we were closest with, Clause and Hans, gave us much info on the tent, including how they are owned, run, built, and stored. The “owner” of our table had been renting it for 17 years and invited many of the same people back each time. Pretzel would show up and shared as a generous person would buy them for the table. Later, the table owner came back with roses for all of the ladies, including Sarah. It was a great experience sitting with the locals for about 6 hours and learning so much. Overall, the tent was relatively mild for having 10,000 people in it. Songs were sung, and some of the typical bravado was done (I’ll get into that), but in comparison to other tents, it was much more of a local hangout, true to good music and good people.
We said our goodbyes just before 5pm (having been kicked out due to the tables turning over from the afternoon to evening session). So we headed out into the busy streets and ended up just one or two tents over at Spaten. There was a line and we figured we would have to wait. But little by little people were seeping in and within 5 min, Sarah and I were in a beer garden. The hostess showed us to a table of Canadians and Australians and we were welcomed. It soon became painstakingly apparent that we were the oldest ones there. A guy next to us was dubbed “Grandpa” as he was far older than the rest (at the age of 30) and most of them were 20 or 21. Within the hour a few were leaning on our backs, others passed out on the table. One guy was hanging all over a girl and they apparently “married” earlier that day – she was German and 16 – he was Canadian and 21, a lasting relationship no doubt. We called it good after a few hours there and stumbled to the carnival rides, always a great decision after a day of drinking. After spending far too many Euros and wandering around in a lame and pointless amusement house, we emerged, calling it a day.
After a few beers, getting home on the subway was a challenge. Justin opted to be passive and let Sarah guide the way. However, Sarah did not know the correct route so the Walkers bounced up and down the train tracks. It was not Justin’s proudest moment. But they made it home to retire.
The next morning dawned early. A quick breakfast, check-out, and back to the grounds for round 2! While sitting in the metro station not a single other person was there. Do you know how weird it is to be in a subway station alone? It was creepy.
Augustiner was Justin’s favorite beer place the last time we were in Munich so we went to this hall at about 8:30am. No one seemed to be there, which was odd. We met a guy wearing a Michigan sweatshirt (surprise, surprise, he didn’t actually go to Michigan, just like 98% of people who wear that gear) and invited him to join us. Justin wandered around the back of the building and found why we were only standing with a few people in front – hundreds had already joined a line at the side. We waited 10 minutes and burst into the hall just after 9am, grabbing a prime seat next to the beer. The next few hours we talked and listened to house music, munching on pretzels and toasting new comers to the table. Some girls from Brazil sat next to us, and when they left, a group of crazy men from Italy scooted in. While we couldn’t understand much, we gathered that they were friends and one of them played professional soccer in Italy. Chicken for lunch and around 2pm we said our goodbyes, eager to see the rest of the fair before leaving for the airport.
We walked the midway, buying cookies for the girls, and went down to the Hippodrom, the hopping party tent at the end of the strip. It was a packed, wild, madhouse. This is where later that week Usain Bolt and Samuel L. Jackson were spotted, as are most celebrities that frequent the fair. Overwhelmed by the intensity, we rolled on to Hofbrauhouse, one of the biggest and most touristy. We were not disappointed. In stark contrast to the tranquil environment of the tents filled by locals, this one had most people standing on the tables, beer flying through the air, glasses smashing onto the floor (and each other) and people getting tossed out). I think the only German’s in there were the ones serving beer. We asked if we could slide in with some Australians and ended up standing with them (as the benches and tables were covered in beer). Sarah was a bit over the all-day drinking and soon we called it a day, needing to make our way to the airport for our return flight. It is a miracle we made it, and after alternating naps in the airport, boarded our plane back to Johannesburg, rounding out the 20 hour plane trip for the 36 hours of all-out Oktoberfest fun. And in truth, I wouldn’t have done it any other way!
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| Another photo album by Smilebox |
Part III: October, Johannesburg, South Africa
In an anticlimactic event, we rolled into the annual Bierfest at Montecasino. Give other competing events, we went on a Sunday afternoon. The beer, though brewed in a German style, is actually South African, and the food is terrible, unless you like polony, stale pretzels, and hardened cheese. The music alternates between traditional music and modern covers, but the toast is said no less than 500 times. While we have had some fun there in the past, I realize as I write this up that it in no way deserves the space of the true Oktoberfest. I am always on the lookout for fun events like this, but I don’t recommend going if you have managed to hit up Munich in September the same year.
Wednesday, June 13, 2012
Germany
Is there any place in the world more desirable to visit? Sure, people talk about white sand beaches and bustling cites, but they haven't been to Bavaria! We caught a direct flight overnight from Johannesburg to Munich. Upon arrival, we had one primary objective - Beer Hall.
Our first stop, however, was the Dachau Memorial. The exact opposite of a rancorous beer hall, this is the site of Nazi Germany's first concentration camp. Some horrific deeds were completed here, and 32,000 souls lost their lives on these grounds. Room after room of black and white pictures depict the evils of man in its darkest hours. A large sign reads in multiple languages "Never Again," a hope we all share.
Accomplishing our primary objective, we sidled up to Paulaner Brewery, our favorite international brewery. Tasting your favorite beer out of its homegrown tap is second to none. By the end of our first day, we had seen the worst and the best Germany has to offer. Our stop was The Meininger Hotel, a good deal for a quad room at about 56 Euros/night.
We rose the next morning to visit the 1972 Olympic Stadium. Being huge fans of Steve Prefontaine, it was significantly important for us to see where he ran as well as the site of the horrific terrorists attacks of Black September. The track was being redone so we were unable to walk on the track but we sat in the stands while the children ran. Also on the tour was the pool where Mark Spitz set his records. Unfortunately, there was very little on the information side. We left disappointed not seeing more historical items.
With the big cultural sites out of the way, we hit the largest beer hall in Munich, Hofbrauhaus. With four levels, this beer hall rocks any night of the week. We feasted on sausages and guzzled dark beer while a band played traditional music. Our girls danced in the aisles. Later that evening Kaelia was riled up from lack of sleep, climbed half way up a bunk bed ladder, and launched herself off. We spent the night in the emergency room and returned the next morning because Kaelia refused to walk and screamed bloody murder at being set down. We carried her for the rest of the trip.
On the way out of town we rolled past the Theresienwiese, site of Oktoberfest. While nothing was going on, we vowed to return when there was. It was a few hour drive down to our next stop, Garmisch, in the mountains on the boarder or Austria. It was our first experience on the autobahn, and we fared well. The road had high speed limits and when "off" cars rolled along quickly. But it never felt too fast and we were impressed by the order on the road. When we arrived, we rolled up the hill to the base of the Zugspitze, the highest peak in Germany. We went up the cable car at the extravagant price of 50 Euros a person to the top. From the 3000m summit we could see into four different countries. The girls loved playing in the snow at the top because it was the first snow Kaelia could see (Taelyn wouldn't remember her snow encounters). On the way down, we ended up in a beer house where every one of the 30 patrons was dressed in traditional Bavarian garb.
For the next few nights we crashed in Füssen, also in the southern part of the country. In an effort to realize a romantic dream, we stayed in the most castle-looking place we could, Hotel Fantasia.The rooms were very nice, in the center of town, and looked up to a castle. The girls loved the trampoline, Sarah the towers and archways, and Justin the large breakfasts. From here we enjoyed several great runs along parks and rivers and into mountain lakes. But the main purpose of visiting is to see the famous castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau. FYI - this was every bit as exciting there as anticipated. Sometimes when you see so many postcards and pictures of something, it isn't as good in person, but this was. We loved hiking up the hills to the gorgeous castles and hearing all about this history. We took a horse-drawn carriage down from one of them. The girls ran up and down the stairs pretending they were in Cinderella. After all, Neuschwanstein is the castle they modeled Cinderella's castle off at Disney World. Justin and Taelyn danced in the ballroom.
Our next stop was Rothenburg ob der Tauber. This medieval city has been around since before 1000 and some of it has original structures. We visited the Medieval Crime and Torture Museum and saw many artifacts. Our favorite was the barrel the drunks had to wear or perhaps the masks for women that were gossips. There were executioner swords, axes, thumb screws, an iron maiden, and much more. Sarah and Justin went for runs around the walled city and save seeing some medal or the rare car, it felt as if it were in the 1500's. We ate Schneebälle (snowballs) of dough, sugar and chocolate, famous for the area. Sarah went on a night tour of the city led by a night watchman dressed in traditional garb. We also visited the Christmas factory which had 4 levels of crazy holiday cheer. It was a bit overwhelming.
Our last stop was the small town of Hirschau where we visited a former UNC athlete. She hosted us in her house and we sampled small-town Germany life. Overall we found Germany to be very clean, incredibly efficient, and beautiful. All in all, one of our best trips ever!
We rose the next morning to visit the 1972 Olympic Stadium. Being huge fans of Steve Prefontaine, it was significantly important for us to see where he ran as well as the site of the horrific terrorists attacks of Black September. The track was being redone so we were unable to walk on the track but we sat in the stands while the children ran. Also on the tour was the pool where Mark Spitz set his records. Unfortunately, there was very little on the information side. We left disappointed not seeing more historical items.
With the big cultural sites out of the way, we hit the largest beer hall in Munich, Hofbrauhaus. With four levels, this beer hall rocks any night of the week. We feasted on sausages and guzzled dark beer while a band played traditional music. Our girls danced in the aisles. Later that evening Kaelia was riled up from lack of sleep, climbed half way up a bunk bed ladder, and launched herself off. We spent the night in the emergency room and returned the next morning because Kaelia refused to walk and screamed bloody murder at being set down. We carried her for the rest of the trip.
On the way out of town we rolled past the Theresienwiese, site of Oktoberfest. While nothing was going on, we vowed to return when there was. It was a few hour drive down to our next stop, Garmisch, in the mountains on the boarder or Austria. It was our first experience on the autobahn, and we fared well. The road had high speed limits and when "off" cars rolled along quickly. But it never felt too fast and we were impressed by the order on the road. When we arrived, we rolled up the hill to the base of the Zugspitze, the highest peak in Germany. We went up the cable car at the extravagant price of 50 Euros a person to the top. From the 3000m summit we could see into four different countries. The girls loved playing in the snow at the top because it was the first snow Kaelia could see (Taelyn wouldn't remember her snow encounters). On the way down, we ended up in a beer house where every one of the 30 patrons was dressed in traditional Bavarian garb.
For the next few nights we crashed in Füssen, also in the southern part of the country. In an effort to realize a romantic dream, we stayed in the most castle-looking place we could, Hotel Fantasia.The rooms were very nice, in the center of town, and looked up to a castle. The girls loved the trampoline, Sarah the towers and archways, and Justin the large breakfasts. From here we enjoyed several great runs along parks and rivers and into mountain lakes. But the main purpose of visiting is to see the famous castles of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau. FYI - this was every bit as exciting there as anticipated. Sometimes when you see so many postcards and pictures of something, it isn't as good in person, but this was. We loved hiking up the hills to the gorgeous castles and hearing all about this history. We took a horse-drawn carriage down from one of them. The girls ran up and down the stairs pretending they were in Cinderella. After all, Neuschwanstein is the castle they modeled Cinderella's castle off at Disney World. Justin and Taelyn danced in the ballroom.
Our next stop was Rothenburg ob der Tauber. This medieval city has been around since before 1000 and some of it has original structures. We visited the Medieval Crime and Torture Museum and saw many artifacts. Our favorite was the barrel the drunks had to wear or perhaps the masks for women that were gossips. There were executioner swords, axes, thumb screws, an iron maiden, and much more. Sarah and Justin went for runs around the walled city and save seeing some medal or the rare car, it felt as if it were in the 1500's. We ate Schneebälle (snowballs) of dough, sugar and chocolate, famous for the area. Sarah went on a night tour of the city led by a night watchman dressed in traditional garb. We also visited the Christmas factory which had 4 levels of crazy holiday cheer. It was a bit overwhelming.
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| Barrel worn as punishment for public drunkenness |
Our last stop was the small town of Hirschau where we visited a former UNC athlete. She hosted us in her house and we sampled small-town Germany life. Overall we found Germany to be very clean, incredibly efficient, and beautiful. All in all, one of our best trips ever!
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| This photo album created with Smilebox |
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