Georgia - the country, not the state - was never really on our radar. However, not one person we met who had gone had anything to say about it that wasn't spectacular, so we gave it a go. A brutal overnight flight (of just 3.5 hours) was not the best start, nor was the very Asian-like exit of the airport, packed with people, many pulling at you to take their cab. We got a SIM card from a stand and checked out our rental car, following the guy past the clouds of cigarette smoke to a lot where we got the junkiest rental car I think I've ever paid for. Departing north at 5:30am, only Justin saw much of the town while the rest slept. We stopped at Zhinvali Water Reservoir and shortly on to Ananuri Fortress for quick pictures before heading up to the mountains in Stepantsminda. Our stay was at Ska Cottage, a small place overlooking the mountains that I would say can be beaten if it weren't for the views and the price. Unfortunately, it rained a lot and there wasn't much we could do about that.
A highlight in the north of the country was that we hiked up to Gregeti Trinity Church, one of the most picturesque locations possible. While we had neither the gear nor the patience for going farther, we hauled up (and down due to the lightning and hail) that mountain. Nothing could be finer than having a bite at Cozy Corner by the river. The Georgian food never disappointed, from delicious soups to unique bread, and of course, the wine. Khachapuri is a delicious bread with cheese, and the khinkali - like dumplings, were smashing. We snuck in a short hike to the waterfall and a single run. Had the weather been better this would have been a place to explore more, but it just was not quite that time of year yet. It was the closest most of this family would ever get to Russia, though.
The drive back was interesting. When it isn't stray dogs, herds of cows, or even horses on the road, truckers were in the way. While miles upon miles of long-haul trailers were parked on the side of the road (presumably to enter Russia), there were still trucks, and on the winding mountain roads, they proved hard to pass. Many people took plenty of liberties in getting past them and it became more of a white-knuckling experience. However, when we hit the border of Tbilisi, it was as if everyone had forgotten how to drive! No longer were there any lanes - people just weaved in and out as they pleased. Heavy traffic combined with rain made the last hour one of the least enjoyable of the trip, particularly as once we got close to the next hotel, we were caught among a bunch of walking streets and one-way roads. We got stuck in small alleyways, behind construction, and parked cars. It was extremely frustrating. However, our place - Old Tbilisi Rhymes - was a gem, once we finally found it. The place was large and a short walk from all the things we wanted to see. Location is key. A burger and beer at SMA cafe did help (though the burgers weren't the best).
I forgot to mention that on this drive home, we did stop a couple of times to see the Jvari Monastery, a 6th-century building that remains largely unchanged, and the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, which originated in the 4th century.
Our goal was to do a walking tour at night. The weather was a bit wet and windy but we rocked up anyway along with a random Polish woman to take the tour. We learned a lot and saw some of the best sites, from Zion Cathedral, Liberty Square, some cool architecture, the Meidan Bazaar underground, and lots of other little things, all told in a fun way. However, I was very tired from the long day and was glad to call it quits. The next day we hiked up to the top of the 4th century Narikala Fortress (since the cable car was not open due to winds) and the Mother of Georgia statue. These places were just above us, offering great views, and finally some sun. Burgers and beers at Tsota Tsota hit the spot, though the Black Dog was fun too with all its Big Lebowski-themed items and movie posters.
Our final day in the capital was spent at the Sulfur Baths. There are a number of them there but the most iconic is Chreli-Abano which looks a bit like a mosque on the outside. The pool was hot to say the least, and we all were pretty uncomfortable after about 5 minutes in the water. The bravest hopped from the 50-degree Celcius pool to the fridged cold plunge, but not everyone could handle it. Sarah and Taelyn opted for a kisi, which is like an exfoliating scrub. Red like lobsters, we said goodbye. Our dinner was at the 144 Steps Cafe, up above our lodging, which offered good food, like everywhere.
The third leg of our trip took us east, towards some of the more famous winelands of the region. However, along the way, we wanted to stop at Davit Gareja, a beautiful monastery complex. However, Google Maps pulled a fast one on us and soon we were braving potholes. When it said "turn right" and there was no discernable road, we were not encouraged. Up and over a road, paved this time but with grass growing on it (they could film the Walking Dead on this street), we wondered if we were in trouble when we hit a military base with no entry due to a firing range (what time we did not want to find out). Onward we plowed basically down a two-track dirt road with dips and ruts. We only had 2-wheel drive and it was very sketchy, bottoming out repeatedly. Had we gotten stuck, it would have been hours to get someone to even find us. However, after more than an hour of trying to bounce along this path and not end up stranded, we found pavement. Google Maps even said we crossed momentarily into Azerbaijan as we were driving along the border! In the end, it was worth it as this 6th-century church was built into a rock face and was a spectacle to see.
The rest of the drive headed up into the mountains to the town of Sighnaghi, of the City of Love. Here we stayed at Apartment Sunrise, a place that could have slept 10 people. The old man spoke no English but was nice enough, bringing us fresh strawberries every day. We were famished so we went to Pancho Villa, a little Mexican place in town. It was a smashing success. Despite not getting the guacamole (there was no power so he couldn't blend the avos), we all thoroughly enjoyed that meal of pico de Gallo, burritos, and Coronas, of course! It really was some of the better Mexican food we have had abroad. The next day we headed to Pheasant's Tears Winery and had a wine that contained 418 types of grapes! It tasted about how you would expect that too, but it was fun nonetheless. Then we walked to Bodbe Convent, a stunning place overlooking the mountains. While not as ancient as most sites (but still older than the USA), it was still impressive and very beautiful. Walking on through the hills we came to the Cradle of Wine Marani. This tasting is held by a guy named Paul who will ridicule you as well as bedazzle you (and you best follow the toastmaster's rules) all while you sip on unique wines and taste delicious bread. We laughed and learned all about this wine culture, which is the oldest in the world going on 8000 years! But we also learned how important it was for Georgian hospitality. We ended back at Pancho Villa because it was Cinco de Mayo after all.
Our last day was (somewhat) uneventful as we drove back to the capital and stayed in a hotel close to the airport. It lacked just about everything the description on Booking.com said, but we made due. We also headed out to 2 Tons for food, but this satellite restaurant of the one downtown was terrible! Service was an absolute joke and while they had a menu of say 100 items, 50 of them were not at this location! Hard pass.
Georgia was a gorgeous country with impressive architecture that remains intact after many centuries of weather and invasion. The people are very kind overall (much more so in touristy places) and a shocking number speak English. Overall, most food and lodging is cheap, like my rental car, and this is an untapped gem in terms of tourism. It will never get big like Italy but it has so much to offer and is a breath of fresh air from the more packed Western European cities.
