Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Christmas in Poland

We arrived in Krakow, Poland after an overnight flight with our friends, The Jettners (from South Africa/Saudi/Michigan). As a special Christmas treat, Justin hired a limo for a surprise and the group drove around town in style, sipping champagne. We ended at the Christmas Market in the main square, a village of stalls basked in Christmas lights across a square smelling of roasted meat, mulled wine, and with every trinket imaginable. After getting our fill of food, drink, and shopping, we headed out for a Mexican dinner, perfect for Poland.

Day 2 dawned with a trip to Park Wodny, an indoor waterpark.  We then celebrated Ari's birthday by going to a natural history museum (some live animals), and dinner at the recommended Del Papa. The next day we visited the Rynek Underground, a museum of a partially preserved medieval city under the town square. Our evening capped off with a trip to Maze Krakow, an exciting role-playing game where you are locked in a room.  You have 1 hour to find a bomb, disable it, and get out of the room. Using clues and items in the room, you must unlock doors, enter codes, and find secrets. It was like being in National Treasure.

Auschwitz was a haunting day. Sarah and I left the kids back and went on a tour, learning all about the atrocities of what people can do.  We saw whole rooms of luggage, shoes, pots, glass, and combs collected from victims.  The most disturbing was the one with human hair (no pictures allowed). More than a million people were killed at Auschwitz, and many of those at the largest camp Birkenau.  We elected to skip this second and more graphic portion of the tour having been distressed enough by what we already had seen. As the Nazis destroyed all of the gas chambers hoping to cover evidence in the final days of the war, we only saw a reconstructed crematorium.  Many women, children, and the elderly all arrived by trains after days of cramped, cold travel and were told they were going to shower. Instead they were gassed to death.  After walking around, we decided that these people were perhaps the lucky ones, as the survivors were subjected to horrible work conditions, malnourishment, medical experiments, and torture before eventually scumming to conditions, disease, starvation, or execution. Pictures shows people surviving perhaps 2-3 years like this, but many dying within 1-3 months. It was an atrocity never to be repeated.

Aside from many trips to the Christmas Market, we also found some great places to enjoy a beverage.  Beer Gallery is a fun little place with lots of Belgian beers.  Another amazing place we found was the House of Beer with a display wall of bottles acting as a menu. On a chance, we passed by the T.E.A. Time Brewery which sported a fun bar above an underground tavern. For another taste of the microbrew scene we headed to C.K. Brower, a cool looking bar with about 5 beers of their own.  I have to say, we were quite impressed with the level of craft brews in Poland. Another exciting option is the Wodka Cafe Bar. With more than 100 types of vodka on hand, you can sample any number of them for very cheap. Good luck.

On the way out of town we checked out the Wieliczka Saltmine, an underground network of caves carved out by 100+ years of mineral mining. While the history was exciting, perhaps the highlight was the girls being able to lick every wall in the place. We headed south to the mountains to visit Zakopane, Poland's Winter Capital.  Unfortunately, there was no snow. That did not stop us from doing everything we wanted, just a bit abridged. Our base was the beautiful Aprtament Glaumor 1, one of the better places we have found on booking.com.  Hitting the outdoors, skating is skating, and public rinks have bad ice no matter what. But when you get to do it with the mountains as a backdrop, it really doesn't matter the weather.  We also went dog sledding. With no snow, we actually went dog carting.  After meeting the dogs and getting to play with them a bit, we learned all about them. Then the dogs were hooked up to a cart and we took turns going around a small track with them pulling.

A similar experience was our trip on a horse-drawn sleigh. Large carts were pulled by horses and we ventured into the woods at night, Many stars glistened overhead and we stopped at the halfway point to have a drink - tea with vodka. We carted back, sipping wine from bottles and keeping warm, until we reached a lodge.  Nestled into a wood cabin with sausages roasted over a fire, we were entertained by traditionally dressed men playing instruments around the fire pit.

Skiing was in serious jeopardy with the weather but bits of machine-made snow coated the lower slopes of the hill, enough for a few days of ski lessons for the girls.  By the final day, Taelyn was going up and down on her own.  We also found some sleds and hit the slops for good winter fun.  While it wasn't ideal to miss out on snow at Christmas, we really lucked out by not having weather that was too cold to stop us from doing outdoor activities.

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On the way home we had a long layover in Berlin.  We embarked on a whirlwind tour, heading over to Checkpoint Charlie, Brandenburg Gate, and the Berlin Wall.




Sunday, September 27, 2015

Germany - Oktoberfest

Would you believe it? Another trip to Germany. This time it was for the marathon. It just happened to be a big coincidence that Oktoberfest was going on at the same time!

We arrived in Nuremburg, the closest point for the race and spent a few days at Five Reasons Hostel & Hotel, situated within the walled city and overseen by the Imperial Castle. Hikes around town were greeted with great food and drink, especially at Hausbraurei Altstadthof, Café Wanderer, and BarfüsserBrauhaus.  We ventured deep into the underground caves to see the city below the city.  We also headed out to the Nazi Rally Grounds and Memorium of the Nuremberg Trials to get a taste of the significant history of the city. Such amazing and horrible things happened here and it is good to see that these sites haven't been destroyed. We learn more from being able to walk around than from stories or books.

The weekend concluded with an ill-advised marathon in a small, neighboring town. It was one of the prettiest races I have done.  But soon we were headed to Munich, with the running behind us, and a new kind of marathon looming ahead.

Oktoberfest is one of the world's most amazing events and we were drawn back. With kinds in tow this time, we opted for daytime visits on weekdays, making it easy to get a seat and less likely to run into any problems. Of course, we all showed up in authentic lederhosen and drindl. Arriving on Monday morning around 11, we had our choice of tents. Opting for a place that is famous for chicken, we rolled in and sat down to the butter and herb roasted goodness that is Bavarian Hendl. Of course, we had to spot some pretzels as well as a great litre of brew. Seeing no reason not to bounce around and check out the other atmospheres, we went on to the next tent and the next. From Spatan to Hacker-Pschorr, to Hofbrauhaus we roamed.  The girls stopped for a gingerbread cookie which they demolished.  We lost Sarah for a bit but she resurfaced and we made our way home, job well done.

The next day we headed back for round 2, but this time meeting a couple we worked with in Doha. It was family day so the rides were half price.  With the promise of carnival rides, we got the kids back in for food and alternated rides with another tent and so on. Even at half prices the rides were expensive (and cheesy). But some tents had kids' areas and all had music so we were all entertained. Towards the afternoon we decided that Justin would go to the Bayern-Munich football game with Mike. We went and witnessed a historic game with Lewandowski scoring 5 goals in 9 min.

With Oktoberfest done and dusted, we rolled south into the Bavarian gem town of Fussen.  This is fairy tale kingdom and on the following day we went to Neuschwanstein Castle and
Hohenschwangau Castle and learned the history of King Ludwig II. These castles are amazing to see and provide great views.  After the castles we headed to a brewery.  Dinner and a few lead to a fine game of putt-putt out in the fields below the castle. Our base was the lovely Hotel Fantasia, a repeat stay and one of our favorite lodgings in the world. It is like its own fairy tale castle and garden at the base of the real castles.
Our final stop on the way out was Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a German town in northern Bavaria known for its medieval architecture. Half-timbered houses line the cobblestone lanes of its old town. The town walls include many preserved gate houses and towers, plus a covered walkway on top. One of our favorite sites in this town is a medieval crime and torture museum, complete with swords, masks, and other devices. At night we joined the famous Night Watchman tour. A guy dresses in a holocaust cloak and wields a giant ax-like weapon as he wanders through the streets describing life as it was in medieval times. It is really a fun addition to a great, classic city.

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Sunday, April 19, 2015

Paris and Brussels


Though we went for the marathon, it wasn't all business in Paris. We posed in front of the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, and The Louvre for pictures on a cold and windy day. We also headed to Disneyland Paris for a flair of the magic, European style.  It was pretty much everything we remember Disney being, if not just a little smaller, but by arriving early, we never had much waiting to do.

The day before the race the girls ran their own race. At 1.2km, this was the farthest they had ever had to run. Facepaint and music pumped them up, but at the last minute Kaelia had a meltdown and cried. Taelyn took off and finished well.  Kaelia cried and slogged most of the way before rallying.  Finally, the reason for the visit, the marathon: Justin took off with another guy and they talked and ran together for 20 miles.  Since he wasn't in prime shape, that was the limit, and at 22 miles Justin did some damage control to bring it in, albeit slowly.

With the running nonsense out of the way, we headed by train to Brussels - the land of beer, chocolate, and waffles!

One unique stop was the Atonium, a large, metal structure that has information inside. Built for the 1958 World Exhibition, the Atomium is shaped on the model of an elementary iron crystal enlarged 165 billion times.  We didn't go in, but pictures in front were odd enough. Adjacent to this was Mini Europe, a crazy miniature replica of many of the buildings of the continent in scale size sprawled out on some putt-putt course looking land.  After a walk through here we ended in the water park for some slides and fun.

Most of our time was spent hunting out great beer spots.  We frequented Delirium, a popular one and perhaps the place with the most beer in the world (over 3000). We tried the Chevalier or "yard" of beer at the Raven and hit up places that were hundreds of years old. Amidst the hanging marionnettes at Estaminet Toone as well. We had fancy ones and good food on the plaza in front of the Grand Palace.

The girls had fun doing a city scavenger hunt and looking for the famous peeing statues. The most famous, Manneken Pis is of a boy peeing into a fountain. He has a sister, Jeanneke Pis, is squatting just in front of the Delirium Cafe. And the last, Zinneke Pis, is a dog on a street corner.

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Saturday, February 7, 2015

India and Sri Lanka 2015

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"Your flight is full. We have bumped you to a later flight. It leaves at 1:30am but you will go direct to Delhi rather than to Sri Lanka, layover 8 hours, and then arrive at 6pm." is what we were told on arrival at the airport. Looks like hours of sitting in the airport. 20 min later a man says, "Sorry, that flight is full. We will put you on the original flight." So it goes in Doha.  So after many pre-flight cocktails, we boarded the plane for the 5 hour journey to Colombo. Arriving in Sri Lanka, we had 8 hours to kill, so we found a hotel in the airport allowing us to sleep, shower, and hangout instead of spending a day in the airport.  It made the flight to Delhi manageable. We arrived in New Delhi to a twinge of humidity we had long since forgotten coming from our mild, Middle Eastern winter.  Making our way to our private driver, we sped in and out of traffic while people flashed headlights at each other in both directions.  While lines painted on the road only seemed to serve as a general guideline for the direction of traffic, we did not experience the chaos and gridlock that we had come to expect from Indian traffic. That is, until the side streets.  Much like the later-mentioned Taj, one can only comprehend traffic when in it.  Bumper to bumper is an understatement but when 3 lanes become 7 and people creep forward inches apart on either side, it is a whole new definition of packed.

Our trip to Delhi was short, keyed in on just a few events.  First, we saw our friend, Faze and toured her school.  She took us to Old Delhi and we boarded bicycle rickshaws for a tour.  Poverty met productivity at every turn.  The city was not completely awake though many people hustled up and down the often one-lane road.  Cows ruled street corners, bicycles, scooters, and tuk-tuks were everywhere, dogs and goats roamed without restraint, and people sat in mud and on the street. One of our most memorable stops was the chili market.  We sensed it 100m before we got there.  Climbing the narrow stone staircases, we began to exert short, rough guttural coughs.  Our eyes began to itch and our noses ran like faucets. Our climb ended with a view of the central courtyard of the market.  All around people (all males) went about their daily business, cleaning their garments and washing themselves with water from jugs.  Some were naked and took no notice of us white folk touring through their homes.  Stall after stall held not more than a tone slab with a blanket on it and various amounts of chillies packed in burlap sacks.  It was a taste of local living I have not seen rivaled in any other country.  We ended our tour with a trip to a dress shop where the girls each picked out their own special Indian outfits.
Sarah and Faze having margaritas in India

Delhi briefly visited, we woke early the next morning for a long car ride to Agra.  After inching through the local traffic we opened up into the outskirts of the city and saw green countryside which expanded our perception of India.  Hours later we inched again into Agra and leapt out to buy our tickets.  I negotiated with a guide and we had a wonderful tour of the Taj Mahal.  Each place we stopped our guide pointed out the amazing symmetry of the building and surrounding structures. Quite impressive was the attention to detail in symmetry, the inlaid stone colors, and sheer size of the building built so long ago.  One of those buildings you see photographed so many times, the Taj is one that you would think would just be so-so when you step up to it.  However, it is anything but. The Taj exceeded our expectations in every way.

Our girls opted to wear their Indian dresses to the venue.  Our guide asked us early on if we minded if people took pictures of the girls.  We asked them and they shook their heads. The guide said something and about 5 guys walked away.  We hadn't realized they were all standing around us to take their picture. Throughout the tour, we were asked many times to let the girls have their picture taken.  We would take a shot of the girls in front of the Taj, and then the next 5 minutes would be other people shooting the girls in the same pose.  They were mobbed but enjoyed the attention.

Fast forward to our flight from Chennai to Sri Lanka.  We had just spent the day visiting a school in Chennai and headed to the island.  Sarah sat on the isle while I say one seat over on the other isle, the two girls inside on my row.  I heard a women coughing being Sarah. Annoyed by the sound and potential germs being spread, I glanced back to watch her violently convulse and vomit all over herself. As she spewed forth I lunged to push Sarah forward as she had her headphones on and couldn't hear the build up.  Puke sprayed her armrest and coated the isle.  Then, for some unknown reason, she started wiping it off.  Flecks were flung on my cheek and shirt.  I yelled for her to stop but not before the man next to her was coated.  I scrapped it off my shoe and counted the seconds until I could get to the washroom to clean.  Rather than apologize or ask for help, the moment the plane touched down she stood in the isle.  Not wanting to get coated, we squeezed in further until she de-boarded. To add insult to injury, we had to buy a second visa for Sarah once arriving. It was not a pleasant couple of hours. Add that to a 3-hour drive to the resort.

Our beach resort in Sri Lanka was very nice.  Palagama Beach Resort on the west coast of the island proved to be a rustic beach cabana with a flare of niceties.  Each room had an outdoor shower and palm leaves for walls. There was no AC and occasionally the power would go out for a few hours making it fairly warm at times.  There was an infinity pool and a beautiful beach, full of shells, sand, and crabs. Our daily breakfasts were buffets of eggs, waffles, and a mixture of local fare that was both plentiful and tasty.  Lunch and dinner were joined with local beers and cocktails while the children swam and played with the dogs and cats on the property. Joined by another family we worked with, this was a great few days of beach time.

One evening Sarah and I joined our friends for Salsa dancing lessons.  A movie was on every afternoon for the children.  The kids got down on the ground with some locals and learned how to weave palm leaves (which pretty much made up every wall and ceiling to the place).  But the highlight had to be the dolphin watching tour.  We saw hundreds of dolphins. They would come up along the boat, come at us, and go away from us.  There were flips and dives.  It was an amazing encounter.

While we didn't to Sri Lanka justice on this trip, we know we will be back.

Saturday, January 3, 2015

European Christmas 2014

Given our never-ending quest to now spend Christmas in Europe and enjoy the wonderful Christmas markets, we had to scheduled a trip to Munich, one of our favorite cities.  Our choice to return to Germany has nothing to do with the beer, meat, or music. It was all about the holiday spirit. Really.

Staying in the Residence Inn Munich East, we were close to downtown (just a few minutes walk to a train and a couple of stops) and close to the English Gardens and a river trail which we ran everyday. Great runs were followed by great breakfast buffets.  But what we really wanted was to take advantage of the Christmas markets.  Full of the smells of cookies, spiced wine, and with holiday music in the air, the atmosphere can't be beat. However, the crowds leave something to be desired. With two little kids in tow, getting around jam-packed markets in the cold evening is not as enjoyable as one would like.  We did enjoy a parade of characters like knights and drinking wine from goblets at the medieval Christmas market, but long lines and no space had us exit for a beer joint where we enjoyed sitting with some friends from Hong Kong we used to work with in Joburg.

No trip to Munich would be complete without visiting our favorite beer gardens and halls at places like Hofbrauhaus, Augustiner, and Paulaner. Good food, good drink, good music and good fun. We also ice skated in the square to music and smells of food and drink.  The last highlight was spending the afternoon with our friends who live in Saudi but we worked with in China.  But we soon were headed south to Austria on the autobahn in a rented car. Next stop: Obertraun.

Located in the beautiful Lake Hallstatt region, Obertraun is a gem. A crystal lake, high peaks, and the feel of being away from it all is spotted with little shops and restaurants and the perfect compliment to our first few days in the big city. Staying at Obertrauner Hof, we netted a great 2-bedroom place with breakfast and excellent hosts.

Wanting to take the girls sledding but having little snow, we took a cable car up to the top of the mountain over town, and hiked to a site called 5 Fingers. With amazing views, we were not disappointed, and the girls were able to rock down some slopes with an old wooden toboggan. Never mind that the drop offs on either side were about 1000 ft.

We then hit up a water park on Christmas day, as it was the only thing open. There is something quite amazing about being able to swim in 80-degree water and yet it is snowing outside. Your hair freezes but you are warm.  Great slides kept us busy for a few hours and were a nice compliment to the Christmas movies we spent the rest of the day watching.




This trip marked our family's first skiing effort.  After a ridiculous amount of waiting in line to get sized up for rentals, then another line for the lift tickets, we dropped the girls in ski school, which at 65 Euros an hour did not really count as school (going "down" this nearly flat piece of land and stepping on a belt to be rolled back. Lather, rinse, repeat.).  Sarah and I headed up, spending 25 min on lifts to reach the top.  This is when the problems started. Sarah cant ski. Not even remotely. And the first steps off the lift (the ones she didn't fall on) got us to a precipice overlooking a huge drop. It was scary, even for me, and I can ski. Sarah proceeded to flop gradually down the hill, crashing every few feet, and looking like a person with a severe muscular issue. Arguing ensued, and there was a very real reality that someone would have to sled her off the mountain.  After threat of divorce and nearly 45 minutes later, Sarah was able to get to the final push. However, this too was a huge drop. She took of the skis and walked it down while I went on to pull the kids from "school" lest they charge us another year of tuition for going over. Sarah and the kids done, I tried to go up again to bring the cost-to-run ratio down to about 100 Euros a pop, but they were making snow. Having only skied in Colorado in sunglasses, I was blasted repeatedly in the face with ice and could not see. After getting down, it was time to call this what it was: a disaster. Needless to say, Walker family skiing isn't going to be repeated anytime soon.

A Christmas highlight was the horse-drawn sleigh ride. Starting in the town of Gosau, we rolled out through the fields under blankets and, as the sun set, up into the dark woods, stopping only once to do shots of home-made schnapps that were passed back by the driver. Sleigh bells and the sights of crisp, white snow completed a perfect evening.

Other highlights were running the trail that meandered the woods above our lodge. It was such a nice sight that we took the girls on a relatively long hike on it, stopping often. Not to be forgotten was the opportunity to build a snowman and have a snowball fight in front of the amazing Lake Hallstatt. The snow, which was absent at the start of the trip. Started on Christmas and got steadily heavier over the week. The day we left it was slamming, turning a 2.5 hour drive back to the airport into 5 hours, causing us to nearly miss our flight. But I will say if I have to get stuck somewhere, you can sign me up for Munich and Austria anytime.

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