Coming to Greece has always been a dream. We almost came a couple of summers ago, but I went climbing in South America and we bought a house instead. So this was our year. We almost didn't make it here. Our plan was to do some white-water rafting and trekking in Nepal. All plans were made, but in September, I felt the marathon calling again, and decided to make a trip of it. Never have I planned such an endeavor so close to the date. But when we landed in Athens, it all became a reality.
We quickly jumped in the car and drove several hours to Delphi. "According to mythology, it is here that the two eagles sent out by Zeus from the ends of the universe to find the navel of the world met. The sanctuary of Delphi, set within a most spectacular landscape, was for many centuries the cultural and religious centre and symbol of unity for the Hellenic world." -visitgreece.gr We strolled into the ancient site, tucked away on a hillside, not knowing what to expect. Our first surprise was that entrance was free. We explored the museum first because, as with most sites in Greece, all of the good stuff is being preserved away from the elements indoors. Outside are ruins, and the whole scale of the site cannot be appreciated without understanding what it should look like if it were still standing. Then we walked the grounds, seeing the famed Temple of Apollo, the theater, and the stadium. Delphi is nothing if it is not hilly! But our efforts were rewarded when we had dinner at Taverna To Patriko Mas, a wonderful place overlooking the valley. If the views weren't enough, we demolished Greek salad, haloumi cheese, tzatziki, and wine. The service was also excellent - so good, in fact, that we went back a second night.
We flew back to Athens and, after finding out there was a taxi strike, managed to figure out how to take a train into the city. We emerged from the station in a total downpour and ran the (thankfully) 1 minute to our place, a lovely, large apartment right near the Acropolis. Friday was spent at the Acropolis, both the museum and on the slopes. We climbed to the top for a view of the Parthenon, perhaps the most famous site in Greece. Although we went early in the day, the tourists still mobbed the site and it felt crowded, though it can be far worse. Also near our house was the Temple of Zeus. I had to pick up my packet for the race and the rest of the time we ate pasta and waited.
The next morning, after a long bus ride, I am sitting on the cold track of the Marathon town stadium, 25 miles from Athens, Greece. We will (roughly) retrace the route run by the messengers to Athens. The course itself is unimpressive; it runs between two iconic stadiums but every bit of it is just a paved suburban highway. Historic sites are off the path and the hilltops and valleys could be many places. But it is the novelty we seek: paying homage to the original route that started this madness. For me, it will be my 75th open (non-ultra, non-Ironman) full marathon. It is a loose milestone, not like 50 or 100, but the 75th has a bit of a draw.
We quickly jumped in the car and drove several hours to Delphi. "According to mythology, it is here that the two eagles sent out by Zeus from the ends of the universe to find the navel of the world met. The sanctuary of Delphi, set within a most spectacular landscape, was for many centuries the cultural and religious centre and symbol of unity for the Hellenic world." -visitgreece.gr We strolled into the ancient site, tucked away on a hillside, not knowing what to expect. Our first surprise was that entrance was free. We explored the museum first because, as with most sites in Greece, all of the good stuff is being preserved away from the elements indoors. Outside are ruins, and the whole scale of the site cannot be appreciated without understanding what it should look like if it were still standing. Then we walked the grounds, seeing the famed Temple of Apollo, the theater, and the stadium. Delphi is nothing if it is not hilly! But our efforts were rewarded when we had dinner at Taverna To Patriko Mas, a wonderful place overlooking the valley. If the views weren't enough, we demolished Greek salad, haloumi cheese, tzatziki, and wine. The service was also excellent - so good, in fact, that we went back a second night.
Our drive back to Athens took us to Lavrio, on the coast, where we attempted to have a seafood lunch; however, all the places were either closed for the season or opening at night. So we pushed down to Sounio to see the Temple of Poseidon overlooking the sea. It was quite a sight standing on the hilltop and we braved stiff winds to get there. A relaxing night in had us ready to fly.
We caught an early plane to Santorini the next morning. If there is one place that is iconic to Greece, it must be the caldera views on Oia. Everyone has seen the white marble homes with blue domes overlooking a brilliant sea. And the best part is that this is exactly what it looks like when you arrive. We drove in, first to the lighthouse on the southernmost point of the island for a hike above the sea, then down to the Red Beach for a look at the water. Bother were stunning. When that wasn't enough, we stopped at Santo Wines for a tasting. Now, people always talk about the food in Greece being amazing but I have never given much thought to the wine. Was I every ignorant! The wine was amazing, and we quickly purchased several bottles. The rest of the day was spent enjoying our cave house which not only had a room for the kids carved into the stone, but its very own hot tub for enjoying the views. A seafood dinner and catching one of the best sunsets ever capped off an amazing day!
We caught an early plane to Santorini the next morning. If there is one place that is iconic to Greece, it must be the caldera views on Oia. Everyone has seen the white marble homes with blue domes overlooking a brilliant sea. And the best part is that this is exactly what it looks like when you arrive. We drove in, first to the lighthouse on the southernmost point of the island for a hike above the sea, then down to the Red Beach for a look at the water. Bother were stunning. When that wasn't enough, we stopped at Santo Wines for a tasting. Now, people always talk about the food in Greece being amazing but I have never given much thought to the wine. Was I every ignorant! The wine was amazing, and we quickly purchased several bottles. The rest of the day was spent enjoying our cave house which not only had a room for the kids carved into the stone, but its very own hot tub for enjoying the views. A seafood dinner and catching one of the best sunsets ever capped off an amazing day!
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| Goofball kid copying dad |
The next morning we were spoiled by a comprehensive breakfast before heading out to do some horseback riding. Dad, of course, wanted to stop by the Santorini Brewing Company to sample, although we can't say it was anything to write home about. A hike around the peninsula, more seafood, more hot tub and wine, more sunsets...it wasn't hard to hang in Santorini. There were very few people as we were in shoulder season, and I assume it would be a horrible mess at its peaks.
We flew back to Athens and, after finding out there was a taxi strike, managed to figure out how to take a train into the city. We emerged from the station in a total downpour and ran the (thankfully) 1 minute to our place, a lovely, large apartment right near the Acropolis. Friday was spent at the Acropolis, both the museum and on the slopes. We climbed to the top for a view of the Parthenon, perhaps the most famous site in Greece. Although we went early in the day, the tourists still mobbed the site and it felt crowded, though it can be far worse. Also near our house was the Temple of Zeus. I had to pick up my packet for the race and the rest of the time we ate pasta and waited.
I ran well, perhaps too fast for my training, and ended in 3:13 in the Olympic Stadium in Athens. It was nice to run the course that started this whole extravaganza. But after some bubbly wine and a shower, we raced to the airport where two flights and a long connection awaited, only to arrive in the morning and go straight to work. I can't say that was pleasant, but the memories of Greece will last far longer than the discomfort of that day.
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