Georgia

Georgia - the country, not the state - was never really on our radar. However, not one person we met who had gone had anything to say about it that wasn't spectacular, so we gave it a go. A brutal overnight flight (of just 3.5 hours) was not the best start, nor was the very Asian-like exit of the airport, packed with people, many pulling at you to take their cab. We got a SIM card from a stand and checked out our rental car, following the guy past the clouds of cigarette smoke to a lot where we got the junkiest rental car I think I've ever paid for. Departing north at 5:30am, only Justin saw much of the town while the rest slept. We stopped at Zhinvali Water Reservoir and shortly on to Ananuri Fortress for quick pictures before heading up to the mountains in Stepantsminda. Our stay was at Ska Cottage, a small place overlooking the mountains that I would say can be beaten if it weren't for the views and the price. Unfortunately, it rained a lot and there wasn't much we could do about that.

A highlight in the north of the country was that we hiked up to Gregeti Trinity Church, one of the most picturesque locations possible. While we had neither the gear nor the patience for going farther, we hauled up (and down due to the lightning and hail) that mountain. Nothing could be finer than having a bite at Cozy Corner by the river. The Georgian food never disappointed, from delicious soups to unique bread, and of course, the wine. Khachapuri is a delicious bread with cheese, and the khinkali - like dumplings, were smashing. We snuck in a short hike to the waterfall and a single run. Had the weather been better this would have been a place to explore more, but it just was not quite that time of year yet. It was the closest most of this family would ever get to Russia, though. 

The drive back was interesting. When it isn't stray dogs, herds of cows, or even horses on the road, truckers were in the way. While miles upon miles of long-haul trailers were parked on the side of the road (presumably to enter Russia), there were still trucks, and on the winding mountain roads, they proved hard to pass. Many people took plenty of liberties in getting past them and it became more of a white-knuckling experience. However, when we hit the border of Tbilisi, it was as if everyone had forgotten how to drive! No longer were there any lanes - people just weaved in and out as they pleased. Heavy traffic combined with rain made the last hour one of the least enjoyable of the trip, particularly as once we got close to the next hotel, we were caught among a bunch of walking streets and one-way roads. We got stuck in small alleyways, behind construction, and parked cars. It was extremely frustrating. However, our place - Old Tbilisi Rhymes - was a gem, once we finally found it. The place was large and a short walk from all the things we wanted to see. Location is key. A burger and beer at SMA cafe did help (though the burgers weren't the best). 

I forgot to mention that on this drive home, we did stop a couple of times to see the Jvari Monastery, a 6th-century building that remains largely unchanged, and the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, which originated in the 4th century. 

Our goal was to do a walking tour at night. The weather was a bit wet and windy but we rocked up anyway along with a  random Polish woman to take the tour. We learned a lot and saw some of the best sites, from Zion Cathedral, Liberty Square, some cool architecture, the Meidan Bazaar underground, and lots of other little things, all told in a fun way. However, I was very tired from the long day and was glad to call it quits. The next day we hiked up to the top of the 4th century Narikala Fortress (since the cable car was not open due to winds) and the Mother of Georgia statue. These places were just above us, offering great views, and finally some sun. Burgers and beers at Tsota Tsota hit the spot, though the Black Dog was fun too with all its Big Lebowski-themed items and movie posters. 

Our final day in the capital was spent at the Sulfur Baths. There are a number of them there but the most iconic is Chreli-Abano which looks a bit like a mosque on the outside. The pool was hot to say the least, and we all were pretty uncomfortable after about 5 minutes in the water. The bravest hopped from the 50-degree Celcius pool to the fridged cold plunge, but not everyone could handle it. Sarah and Taelyn opted for a kisi, which is like an exfoliating scrub. Red like lobsters, we said goodbye. Our dinner was at the 144 Steps Cafe, up above our lodging, which offered good food, like everywhere. 

The third leg of our trip took us east, towards some of the more famous winelands of the region. However, along the way, we wanted to stop at Davit Gareja, a beautiful monastery complex. However, Google Maps pulled a fast one on us and soon we were braving potholes. When it said "turn right" and there was no discernable road, we were not encouraged. Up and over a road, paved this time but with grass growing on it (they could film the Walking Dead on this street), we wondered if we were in trouble when we hit a military base with no entry due to a firing range (what time we did not want to find out). Onward we plowed basically down a two-track dirt road with dips and ruts. We only had 2-wheel drive and it was very sketchy, bottoming out repeatedly. Had we gotten stuck, it would have been hours to get someone to even find us. However, after more than an hour of trying to bounce along this path and not end up stranded, we found pavement. Google Maps even said we crossed momentarily into Azerbaijan as we were driving along the border! In the end, it was worth it as this 6th-century church was built into a rock face and was a spectacle to see.

The rest of the drive headed up into the mountains to the town of Sighnaghi, of the City of Love. Here we stayed at Apartment Sunrise, a place that could have slept 10 people. The old man spoke no English but was nice enough, bringing us fresh strawberries every day. We were famished so we went to Pancho Villa, a little Mexican place in town. It was a smashing success. Despite not getting the guacamole (there was no power so he couldn't blend the avos), we all thoroughly enjoyed that meal of pico de Gallo, burritos, and Coronas, of course! It really was some of the better Mexican food we have had abroad. The next day we headed to Pheasant's Tears Winery and had a wine that contained 418 types of grapes! It tasted about how you would expect that too, but it was fun nonetheless. Then we walked to Bodbe Convent, a stunning place overlooking the mountains. While not as ancient as most sites (but still older than the USA), it was still impressive and very beautiful. Walking on through the hills we came to the Cradle of Wine Marani. This tasting is held by a guy named Paul who will ridicule you as well as bedazzle you (and you best follow the toastmaster's rules) all while you sip on unique wines and taste delicious bread. We laughed and learned all about this wine culture, which is the oldest in the world going on 8000 years! But we also learned how important it was for Georgian hospitality. We ended back at Pancho Villa because it was Cinco de Mayo after all. 

Our last day was (somewhat) uneventful as we drove back to the capital and stayed in a hotel close to the airport. It lacked just about everything the description on Booking.com said, but we made due. We also headed out to 2 Tons for food, but this satellite restaurant of the one downtown was terrible! Service was an absolute joke and while they had a menu of say 100 items, 50 of them were not at this location! Hard pass.

Georgia was a gorgeous country with impressive architecture that remains intact after many centuries of weather and invasion. The people are very kind overall (much more so in touristy places) and a shocking number speak English. Overall, most food and lodging is cheap, like my rental car, and this is an untapped gem in terms of tourism. It will never get big like Italy but it has so much to offer and is a breath of fresh air from the more packed Western European cities. 

Tibet

Getting to Tibet has always been a bucket list item. When we lived in China previously, there was no way to get there - it was closed to foreigners for the duration of our contract. When we arrived in China for our second tour of duty, Tibet was again closed, this time due to COVID. However, over time restrictions began to lift. We tried to go in the summer between our first and second year but no permits were issued. Come fall, it did not appear that we would get the chance yet again. However, with persistent pressuring of the travel agents, we found there was a chance a permit would come. So we applied and actually got one of the first for Westerners that had been issued in years. We were off to the roof of the world with about a week's notice!

Our first full day in Lhasa was a busy one, starting off with a trip to Drepung Monastery. This place was once the largest monastery in Tibet, housing more than 10,000 monks (though only about 500 live there now). After hearing about many spiritual figures we cannot remember, we too a trip to Norbulingka Park, which is the home of the summer palace of the Dhali Lama. Also, we visited the zoo, which was a sad experience, typical of any third-world zoo - baron, concrete enclosures with little interaction, people throwing water bottles into the enclosures and pounding on the cages. It was bizarre. We finished up with a trip to the 600 year-old Sera Monastery, which was no different on the inside to Drepung, and we were a bit monasteried out. 

Our next morning started with a visit to Jokhang Temple, one of the oldest temples in Buddhism. We saw lots more of the same and then did a lap around the temple on Barkhor Street, which pilgrims circle repeatedly. We took some bicycle rickshaws to Potala Palace, probably the most iconic building in Lhasa, which we could see from our window. The palace was huge, but due to the national holiday, packed. It was very difficult navigating the narrow staircases and crowded chapels with so many people. This was the home of several lamas as the winter palace, though it no longer serves that purpose. 

We left Lhasa and headed to nature with several hours driving before reaching Yamdrok Lake at 4,400m. This is one of the three holiest lakes in the world. It was deep blue, beautiful, and long. While there wasn't much to do, we did watch Taelyn almost get run over by a yak, which was entertaining. We pulled off the road a while later to an unnamed glacier. It was a great walk up to a lake where the view was amazing. The only thing that tainted the experience was the many, many oxygen canisters that were left in the trash bin. It was a boardwalk the whole way up there. If you have to suck down a canister of O's just to get there, maybe you should view it from the parking lot.

We drove on to Gyantse to see the Karola Glacier which was very large but the view was not as cool as the previous one. The hawkers were much more aggressive and we were getting pretty tired of it so it was not a long stay. Our final stop was the Gyantse Palcho Monastery where inside was Kumbum Stupa, famous for its 100,000 Buddhist figures.  However, much of the rest remained very much the same. 

The next day was the longest, a drive to Mount Everest. Many hours took us to an overlook and the clouds were covering the views, which was disappointing. It was more time to get to the park and a long way in but eventually, we approached the base camp and suddenly, there it was! Towering above the valley, the sheer size of it was something to behold. Instantly, all the driving was worth it. We hiked out on the plateau and marveled at its beauty, now completely clear against a blue sky. We mailed some postcards from the world's highest post office and watched the sunset. Back in the tents we enjoyed the pellet stove but in the middle of the night, when that went out, a cold like no other set in. Come morning we were all quite chilly and after walking out to see the sunrise, we decided to call it. The peak was covered in fog and we boarded buses to start the long drive back. Thankfully, the overlook now showed a panorama of some of the world's highest peaks. From our viewpoint we could clearly see Makalu, Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma. 

The rest of the trip was making our way back to Lhasa. We passed on the remaining monasteries and opted for a couple of runs at altitude, which sure was not easy. Overall, Tibet was a lot of driving and a lot of the same from place to place, but when your heart and mind are always on Everest, it is a must-do, if you can just get there. Soon after we returned, it closed again due to the pandemic restrictions. We were glad we got it in, though it was a very expensive endeavor. 

My Smilebox Creation

China Summer

It was never our intention to spend the summer in China. However, we could not leave due to the pandemic so we had to make the most of it. After school was canceled four days early due to COVID scares, we ran to a clinic to get tested. With no indication of when the results would come back (and needing them 48 hours before flying) we went again the next morning for another test. By 1pm we had the results and by 3pm we were heading to the airport. We got out of town before more flights were canceled.

Our check-in process was a disaster due to translation issues and health protocols but 45 min later we were in bed. Our first day in Beijing had us walk around Tianamen Square and the Forbidden City. We did not carry our passports and we got all the way around before we couldn’t go further without ID, and it was a long walk back. We also saw the Olympic park where the 2008 games were held but all of the sites were temporarily closed. The next day we hit the water park and enjoyed rides with no waiting. While the rides were awesome, the rest of the park looked like it was used for a horror film 15 years ago. We capped off a long two days by taking 2 hours to get a car and travel the 10K to Great Leap Brewing where we met our friends for dinner.

Kaelia’s 11th birthday was celebrated with a visit to Sun Park and a fun boat ride in the lake. We then headed out for Mexican before Alan and I made the super smart decision to go out to some dive Japanese bar for yet more drinks, but it was essential to catch up with my buddy. The next day we joined the McInnis’ for a cooking class in the Hutongs (the small alleyways of the old city). We played with knives and chopped up a delicious kung pao chicken, pineapple rice, and veggie dumplings.

Our next stop was a Dutong, several hours train from Beijing. The main site here are the Yunang Grottos which house 50,000+ Buddhist cravings in cliff dwellings. From hundreds of small buddhas to ones that stand 50 ft. tall, there seemed to be no end to this artistic display and many of them were still in tremendous shape considering they are 1500 years old! The next day we went south of town to the Hanging Temple. This site is built high into a cliffside and also ranges from about 1400-1500 years ago. While seeing it was cool, walking along its plans high above the ground was a little nerve wracking! We took a cable car up neighboring Mt. Heng, one of the 5 Great Mountains of China, and walked around, with the intention of walking down. This peak is littered with many temples and monasteries as well, all high above the valley floor. However, the path down was closed so we got jacked having to buy another cable car ticket down.

After a train back to Beijing we flew to Zhangjaijie, otherwise known as the Avatar Mountains. The rain was heavy and consistent, but we hiked anyway, first to a waterfall near our hotel. Taelyn was brave enough to swim in the water, but it was far too cold for fun. A slippery path was marked by giant toads, some the size of softballs. The next day we headed down into the park, soaked by rain, and followed a river up. We hit a path that was closed, but on the advice of our hotel, stepped around the fence and hiked on. No one was there; a rare moment of solitude in busy China. The final leg was up and over a peak. The steps were slick from moss and rain, and the stairs never relented. We went from freezing to sweating and once we reached the top, we had to descend for more than an hour down those greasy steps. Our final day required a cable car up to the top and a bus. We stepped into tourist zones. Wide paths were packed with people all following the guide holding a little flag and shouting facts and instructions into his PA system. It was a gross contrast to the previous days. However, the views were unrivaled as the floating mountains emerged from the fog. We took another “closed” path down and hiked for an hour until we reached “One Step to Heaven,” a natural platform on the peak of a spire. The only way to reach the summit was a near-vertical ladder climb. Our efforts were met with a 360-degree view of the mountains. We dropped again, our legs jello, before finishing up our stay at the lovely Whispering Mountains boutique hotel.

Our next leg had us down in Yunnan and we went right to the Stone Forest. I had no idea what to expect but was pleasantly surprised as the park with rock formations melded into a cavern of caves, trails, climbs, and valleys. The next two days were in the rice terraces. The views were wonderful, but clouds obscured the sunset. We skipped sunrise due to the rain, and the terraces that appear bathed in blue light were not flooded so we saw little more. Our only stop was the mushroom village in a total downpour – not a person was out. While it had the potential to be great, the 6-hour drive back and the two-hour train made it a questionable stop on our trip.

We arrived in Dali with no more rain!! The ancient city was lined with shops and food; we had to try the Crossing the Bridge Noodles – famous in this area – where all items get cooked in the soup on your table. We had a lovely bike ride on the shores of Erhai Lake and a nice walk in the 1000-year-old Three Pagodas. We found that we only saw about a third of the place as we were leaving. The girls bought items (Kaelia a fancy Chinese dress and Taelyn tie-dye parachute pants) and had ribbons braided into their hair. We sampled Bad Monkey brewery as well as a little craft place and a fun, artsy place with beer and gin. The next morning, we stopped and learned about how tie-die was done but opted not to buy anything.

Two hours up the road in Lijiang, we visited a giant mansion Mufu Palace, also called the miniature Forbidden City. We strolled around Black Dragon Pool Park and caught a small glimpse of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the distance though the views were somewhat impeded. 

Another long drive took us to the Yangtze River and Tiger Leaping Gorge. Legend has it that a tiger was being chased and leapt from a rock on one side to the other. I don’t think he would have made it. The power of the water rushing down was tremendous. When we arrived in Shangri-la, not much was happening. The streets seemed somewhat baren. By nightfall, there was more activity, and the ladies joined a Tibetan-style flash mob of dancing in the square. The next morning, we traveled to Pudacuo National Park and walked around Shudu Lake. People were sucking oxygen out of a bottle on the bus ride in (we were at 12,000 ft). Our kids kept up and we left the guide huffing on the side of the flat trail. Then we visited Songzanlin Monastery, also known as the “Little Potala Palace” since it resembles the one in Tibet.

The touring ended, we transferred back to Yangshou where we meet up with our closest friends overseas. This is our favorite place in China and we made the most of it. Renting ATVs/dune buggies and ripping through the mud was a lot of fun. We shopped West Street, had beers and pizza at Demo, and played pool (when we weren't swimming in the pool). A few of us took the kids to a high ropes course where we ascended up a rock wall over various obstacles. The view down was a little shakey but the zip line rides to end it was pretty rewarding. Renting scooters and driving out to the waterfall for a swim was a highlight as well, though the went, mossy trail made for a few slip and falls on the scooters!

Originally we thought our summer over but we had a chance to head to Chengdu, so we booked it. Chengdu is famous for its giant pandas. Wanting to do it right, we booked the caretaking tour which included us having to clean out the cages of the pandas as well as make some of their food. The absolute highlight was getting to hand feed the bears. While it was another expensive endeavor, it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.  While our children were done, we took the chance to go out in Chengdu. Lost Plate had an auto rickshaw/tuk-tuk food tour. Joining mostly other expat teachers from around China, we bounced from place to place in the back of a tuk-tuk, drinking Snow beer and trying all sorts of local cuisine. 

Just outside of Chengdu and a short train ride away was the town of Leshan, famous for its Giant Buddha. Once entering the park, there is a significant walk to the area of the Buddha. The crowds here were massive, and it was challenging to get to the rail to look down on the structure. Those of us willing to walk on were able to wrap around and down the cliffside. Waits here could be hours long, but we were early enough or lucky enough to have to wait a short time before being let in to the base of the structure. Looking up at it was a sight to behold. Our climb out was at the pace of the people ahead of us (pretty slow) and the long walk out back to the train station made for quite a day. We rode back to Chengdu. That night we checked into a hotel because we were taking the train again in the morning.  A few hours later we were up and out of their hair, on the train again to Emeishan, or Mr. Emei, which is the highest of the four Sacred Buddhist Mountains of China. Cable cars lead to a pathway for a moderate hike up to the Golden Summit, just over 10,000 ft. Our views were decent but I wouldn't want to be wandering up here in winter. 


And thus ended a jam-packed summer of travel in China, as there wasn't anywhere else to go. It did give us a great chance to see a lot of amazing places in China that we likely would not have done had we been able to travel elsewhere. However, the real problem with this was that we had no break from China, which is not an easy place to live. Given the choice, it's always better to get out and see new places so that your home does not become all you know. 

China Spring Break 2021

13 years ago, Sarah and I went to Yangshou for a fun trip in a quaint town. We wanted to take the kids there. We had a slow start and only a frantic cab ride and a lot of luck got us on the train with minutes to spare. We had to go to Guilin since our train tickets to Yangshou were canceled and took a car down. We finally arrived to find the town had blown up into a city. A fish foot spa and lunch started the trip. That night we attended the famous light show on the river, enjoying the amazing choreography and colors as the mountains were lit up and performers used the water as a stage. 

We took the cable car up the mountain for the view, but fog kept the potential of a breathtaking site somewhat low. We had a fun hike around the peak and headed to the water cave, an underground journey typical of caves with nice lights and cool features. After a gross shopping experience underground, we hit the main purpose for our visit: the mud bath. All 4 of us (reluctantly) wandered into the mud, topped with a layer of cold water. Eventually, we all got submerged with the help of the mudslides. We were happy to shower off and head to the hot spring pools for a relaxing soak. 

The next morning we borrowed bikes for a ride out of town. Frustrated with Taelyn for lagging behind, we soon learned she had a flat tire and gear problems. It was quite an adventure trying to get someone in this little village to help us inflate the tire but we made it. After a long ride along the river, we hiked the final portion to the waterfall. With our town walk that morning, we probably hiked 6k and biked another 18 miles. Everyone was toast. Unfortunately, our high ropes course outing was canceled so we opted to stay in and the next day we were joined by friends from work. We spent the day eating, drinking, playing games, and took a bike ride into town for a craft beer place and then a German restaurant. West Street at night was chaotic and a challenge to say the least. But the next day we flew to Xi'an, the ancient capital in the north. 

In the 1970s, farmers digging a well happened upon clay remnants of warriors. The site became excavated and soon we had the Terra Cotta Army. Pit 1 is the largest and contains possibly 6000 soldiers. Much of it still has yet to be uncovered. We saw Pits 2 and 3 as well (the only 3 of the more than 630 that have been found that are open to the public). Our journey was not complete without a VR experience and a look at the museum. We learned more this time and enjoyed the experience, appreciating the massive size of the site and the 30 years of work by more than 700,000 people to construct it. Most all of the soldiers have been destroyed by raiders and their weapons taken. Other pits contained entertainers, acrobats, musicians, and animals. The tomb of the emperor remains untouched, surrounded by bronze, booby traps, and mercury. It may never be opened. We had lunch on the way out, learned how to tell real jade from fake, and marveled at the thousands of shops that have sprung up to make a buck (many of them probably on top of pits of soldiers that will never be uncovered. 

Sarah really wanted to bike on the walled city so we rented tandem bikes and cruised the 8.5 square of the ancient wall. Most sections were bumpy but it was a nice car-free look at the area.

After biking, we just wanted to enjoy a beer and a meal. After searching online, we discovered several options opening a couple of hours later. We walked to the first to scout the location, but nothing walk there. We found another, the building was locked up. Didi wouldn't connect, and we finally got the to the third location. A vacant alley lined only by a waste management plant. This was not going well. We went to the furthest away now since we spent two hours for nothing. Upon arrival, we wandered the mall for a bit before coming upon it. Service was slow but the beer and food were good at Xi'an Brewery. 

In order to travel back north to our hotel to collect our bags and onto the rail station, we needed about 52 minutes (according to the map). 2 hours later we had yet to reach the train station. Our train had left and we ran to book another, only to be told there were no more trains from that station that night. We were stuck. 

Having booked the first train out the next morning, we headed to a hotel we found online. It was identifiable only as H. Hotel (named the Hanting Hotel) and we checked in. They wanted $86 for the room. We said no, and booked it for $49 on Booking.com standing in the lobby. Sarah went to the desk to ask them to call our hotel at the mountain and hold the room for us but was told that the government just told them that no foreigners were accepted and we needed to leave this room. Sarah said no, we had kids sleeping and an early train out and we weren't leaving. They came knocking and woke us up asking for our passports which we gave up just to get some sleep. 

A new cab and train ride and we were off to Haushuan. Once we arrived we were told that we could not climb Mt Hua as foreigners at this time. 4 train rides and 3 nights of hotels (5 rooms) all for only a glimpse of the mountain. What a bust. We headed back after a day of watching movies to Xi'an only to be hassled more at the train station about our health status and registration. We were quite glad to leave Xi'an. 

My Smilebox Creation

Quarantine In China

Although we were supposed to be in China on July 25th, 2020, COVID played its hand. Months of working twice a day (about 6pm-midnight and then 7am-1pm) left me haggard, out of routine, and stressed. We got our visas but the next available flight was a month out. Finally, our date arrived. But just two weeks before we left, the Chinese government changed the rules. A COVID test (not a rapid one) had to be administered within two days of flying as did an antigen/antibody test. Both had to have results back to us and sent to the Chinese embassy for approval, and back in our hands BEFORE flying.

It was a mad couple of days. Sarah called probably 50 service providers and none could ensure that the results would be back in time, not to mention the fact that the embassy was keeping reduced hours. We drove clear across the state to Hazel Park for our test. While there, we were told by the doctor that the clinic we were off to next for the antibody test did not do the correct test. We were sent to Farmington Hills for our bloodwork. 90 min later, we had our results: none of us had had COVID before. One down. We drove all the way home and waited for the PCR test. On Thursday night, we got them, all negative. Our paperwork was sent to the embassy and within 1 hour we were approved to fly. The next morning we headed to the airport with 8 full bags containing everything we would need for the year and many new clothes (our shipment would not arrive from India for many months). 

From Grand Rapids to Minneapolis and on to LA we flew, masks on, seats spaced out. In LA we had to collect the 400+ lbs of luggage and go from domestic to international, no small feat. A line of 300 people deep awaited, where our paperwork was checked for approval and we checked in. We could not all sit together (something that would factor in later) and we pushed on through security. No restaurants were open so we made do with our first real meal of the day after 11 hours of travel by sitting on the floor and eating $20 tacos. As we boarded, more than a few passengers opened their luggage and put on full-body haz-mat suits! 

Our flight was uneventful but notable was that we were scanned twice for temps during the flight and all snacks were pre-packaged in a giant bag on our seat at the start. 14+ hours later we landed in Guangzhou. Shockingly (uncharacteristically for China), no one moved on arrival. They all stayed seated. We sat on the plane for about 40 min before an announcement approved all to get off the plane. 15 min later we were walking off the plane for a temperature check. A few feet further down the jetway, another check. As we reached the terminal we were given a sheet of paper, all instructions in Chinese, with a number on it and put into a corral to wait. Though we could not understand the announcements, we found we were being called in groups of 15 to go to the next phase. Our number was 418.  After about an hour we proceeded to the processing. Every worker had on a full white suit, mask, and face shield.  We had to fill out an app on our phones and then scan the code at a computer terminal. We were temp checked again and passports scanned. We then went down a jetway into another part of the airport for testing. A very aggressive nose swab was conducted (pause here to describe the COVID test for those who haven't had one: A q-tip on a long, wooden rod is placed up your nose, all the way up, and twirled. It is left in there for a moment, then shoved into your brain and spun again just to be sure. It is very unpleasant and if you are really lucky, you get one in each nostril.). We then headed on to immigration and baggage claim. Once there we headed out and into another line hundreds deep.

Survived the plane ride and waiting for testing

After waiting for about an hour in this line, we arrived at the front. You are scanned again (passports have a QR code on them that has all your details so you can be processed quickly). We stepped outside and pushed our carts to the bus. It was a free-for-all to load the bags under the bus; people shoved bags there and walked away with no organization or care for others. I barely got our bags on there, but was left dripping in sweat. We boarded the bus and rode about an hour into downtown (each bus goes to a different hotel and you have no idea which hotel you will end up at nor how far it will be from the city) with a temperature check along the way. 

Once at the hotel, we were taken off the bus and sprayed down with disinfectant, along with our bags. Each one of us was sprayed down: arms, legs, and bottom of feet with a bleach-solution, as were our suitcases. We then went into the hotel lobby and went step by step through filling out many confusing forms in Chinese all asking pretty much the same info (name, address, exposure history to the virus). We then checked in. Again, every person was wearing the full antivirus outfit; few spoke any English. Once cleared, we carted all our luggage up to our rooms; Taelyn and I in one room, Kaelia and Sarah in another. We were told to stay in the room and never to leave it for two weeks. We ordered lunch from the hotel and were treated to our first Chinese meal: lots of rice, some peppers with fried pork soaked in oil, some green-stemmed vegetable, and chicken, on the bone, skin on, fatty. It was our first and last hotel meal for the duration. 

Let's take a moment to describe the room. At first glance, it's dated, but not unusable: two small beds, a loveseat, a bathroom with a shower, and even a flat-screen tv. But that's where the fun ends. Everything is gold. It is disgustingly dirty and smells like a port-a-pottie. It also smells strongly of smoke, but that is just set into all the furniture. The real fun is when the cigarette smoke blows in through the vents. We have to run the aircon 24/7 to be able to breathe. The wallpaper is peeling off the walls, the carpet is stained and covered in both long and short black hairs. The couch comes straight from the basement on That 70s Show and has some questionable stains on it. Black mold haunts the shower and bugs crawl over the door. 

Here is a Smilebox Slideshow of our time. 

However, even though we all started at the same place, Sarah and Kaelia were moved the next morning. Someone on the plane near them tested positive for COVID. They were told to pack up and get downstairs immediately. They did, were yelled at for leaving their room, and went back up to the room for 5 hours before being picked up (Sarah had canceled her classes in panic and then sat there all day). However, even after being moved an hour away to a more restrictive hotel, they came out on top. Their room was nice, clean, and three times the size as the old one. The food was better and they could order ala carte or delivery. Bonus: we all still got out on the same day. 

A typical day might look like this: Rise around 7am (4am in the beginning with jet lag). Answer emails. Run in place for an hour. Core for 15 min. Stretch, shower, and snack. Temp check. A few work calls.  Break for a game of Mario Bros w/ T. Do some UC apps. Lunch. Work some more. Read more apps. Temp check. Watch a movie. Dinner. Play Zelda. Bed. Repeat.   Oh, did I mention I had to plunge out the toilet every other day as it was constantly stopped up?

Breakfast was items we brought with us, like granola bars or oatmeal, though we ran out of them before the end. Lunch and dinner were ordered in. It may sound fun bouncing from dumplings and egg-fried rice to steak, tacos, and pizza, but it gets seriously old. To order, we have to contact help at school. They send us a menu in Chinese. We can't read it so ask for something and she tries her best to find something close. We have no idea when it will arrive, and when it does, it is cold (the hotel checks everything and holds it and does a mass delivery to the rooms several times a day).  They drop it off outside their door, ring the bell, and run away in their haz-mat suits! 

The mountain of plastic we accumulated from delivery food and water bottles was enough to make any outdoor enthusiast weep. Taelyn and I made the most of it, doing as much work as we could and then playing games together. We beat Zelda: BOTW and Super Mario Bros Delux on Switch from start to finish, watched some movies and survived. 

On the 15th day, we were called at 9am and left our room for the first time in more than 2 weeks. At the elevator, we watched it go from floor 1 to 12 or 10 or 13 over and over. Each time it stopped on 9, it was full of people checking out. We waited more than 20 min before it finally arrived empty, and we hauled all of our bags into a left the size of a single shower. Check-out was uneventful compared to check it - we basically walked right outside the door.  The next few days we did many procedural tasks, going to IKEA to shop, checking in with the police, and conducting the bizarre, unfathomable health clinic visit. I wouldn't wish it on anyone. 

Taelyn stamps the final day!

My Smilebox Creation

An Evacuation of India

Probably my parents' worst nightmare is something going wrong abroad. We'd have to scramble to leave the country in haste. In April of 2020, we did just that. As COVID-19 descended, we found ourselves in a dilemma: leave India or wait it out. The risk in staying was that we were due in China for work and if we stayed, there would be no guarantee of being able to leave, not to mention our paperwork may expire and we could not get a visa from the consulates in the US. Therefore, when it became clear India was going to shut down, we looked for a way out. All commercial flights were grounded and only US Embassy evacuation flights were leaving. We got on a list and waited.

People in the US had been talking about "lockdown" to mean they were advised to stay home but they had no idea. India halted all movement with the roads cut off by the military. We could not go out to shop or run; you had to be off the streets. So our school issued a government-approved letter and with diplomatic plates on the van we were able to go in groups to the store a couple of times a week, but otherwise, it was a full lockdown. Our only saving grace was the embassy was still open a few times a week and we spent dinner over there, casually going through every beer in the bar on the generosity of our friend Uday and the surplus from the softball budget. 

Then the call came (email, actually). It essentially said "You are on a flight tomorrow night. Fill out this paperwork within 4 hours or you will be bumped."  Unfortunately, I got it at 10:40am and it was due at 1pm. They wanted all kinds of forms filled out with social security numbers and scanned documents. I spent the morning running to and from the office (a perk of living on campus). It was very stressful work in 100-degree temps. 

Meanwhile, we were selling, throwing away, and giving away most of our stuff. Because it was our final year in India, we had to ship our stuff to China. However, due to the haste in leaving, that shipment would occur after we departed. So we frantically took items to people's homes that bought them, filled bags full of stuff we did not need, and gave away many items. All items in the house had to be marked with a "take" or "do not take" for the movers who would come after we left. It would all sit there and be shipped without supervision at some point. 

A few hours later, we got an email that informed us that if we still wanted to be on the flight tomorrow, we had better submit our info. We panicked, having already sent it, and wrote for follow-up. The next morning (the day of the flight) we had heard nothing. Finally, we got a response back with a snarky reply. "You are not on that flight, probably b/c you did not follow instructions. Go back and read the email." I had more than a few retorts in mind but amazingly held back, and asked some embassy friends to look into it. Shortly after, the confirmation email came through. 

Our final hours were insane. Due to the evacuation flight, we only had one bag each for packing. Whatever had not been packed, given away, sold, or tossed, remained in the apartment. We had our great friend Faze over for a bottle of prosecco that we had from our trip to Italy to celebrate the end (or beginning?). We visited a friend for a glass of whiskey. A party was happening on campus and we stopped in for a quick goodbye to all who were staying. Grabbing all the beers left in my fridge, we carted everything to the gate. A group of families had gathered to say goodbye and it was a teary moment as we hastily said so long to those we'd lived with for four years, not knowing if we'd see anyone again. 

The bus ride to the airport was surreal. Normally, it is a parking lot of merging, horns, and chaos. This time, it was an eerie ghost town; not a car was on the road. The only deviation we took was around military barricades but we were permitted since we had diplomatic markings on the van plates and paperwork. The normally 45min to 1-hour journey was over in about 20 min, barely enough time to finish the beer. At 8:30pm, we pulled up to a dark, vacant airport with a lone American flag hanging over the entryway to the terminal. We took our place at the back of a long line and waited, inching forward every so often. The mosquitos swarmed in the swampy heat. Our flight was due to leave at 6am. The year's longest day wore on. 

America stands tall in the face of adversity

After a few hours, we learned that they were processing everyone on the earlier flight first. However, since some of the people taking the paperwork were known to us from the embassy, we were able to drop ours off and head for the doors. Around midnight we got in the terminal but no aircon was on. Since there were no other flights, there was no real check-in, and we were directed by some Marines to the bag drop. Normally this is a belted system with stickers and codes. Here is was a pile. We literally tossed our only possessions into a pile in the middle of the floor and walked away. Immigration, normally an hour-long disaster, took seconds. Since nothing was open, we headed for the gate. Nearly every light in the place was off, so the walk down was quite creepy. All of the stores were wrapped in shrinkwrap, so nothing could be touched, taken, or infected. 

A brief ID check was the only way in.

No rush to check in

Everything coated in plastic, wrapped up and dark

The Campbells alone in the terminal, normally filled with 50,000 people. 

They would not let us into the gate so we milled around. Finally, we were permitted into the gate area, but it was a long line where everyone had to show their ID and paperwork (I don't know who else they thought was there). Once we finally made it in, we settled down to wait. Soon an announcement came on and said we were moving gates. Seriously? I don't know who thought this one out but rather than drive the ONE damn plane that was at the airport a few gates down, they packed up 300 people and did the check-in all over again at the new gate. India. With a few hours left to go, we actually dropped onto the floor (the only time I willingly laid on the floor in India) and tried to rest. Some did. Then we were woken by an announcement and told we had to leave the check-in area for a security check. Grumbling, we departed, wobbled in place, and slowly inched back into the gate again. But soon the departure was upon us and everyone piled into the plane.

We were told to expect nothing on the flight. However, on each seat was a bag of food, full of fruit, snacks, and water. We also got several bottles of water throughout the flight, which had tv screens in the seats. It was as pleasant as any transcontinental flight we have had, except we had to wear masks the entire time. The waitstaff was very pleasant; every one of them did the round trip on a volunteer basis. Upon landing in San Francisco, a huge cheer went up. We were back in the US of A! I have never seen so many passengers appreciative and thankful to the stewardesses and pilots as on this flight. 

Landing in the US was normal, minus the typical amount of people. The airport was relatively chill, but yet more people than I would have expected given what we had just gone through. Since it was all done in a rush, and there was so much uncertainty about the trip, we had no onward connections. Sarah and I sat on the bags and used wifi to try to search a flight, though everything was $500/ticket or more. We toyed with connections, flying to Chicago and renting a car, and going to Detroit. The girls, exhausted no doubt, were escalating so we, frustrated, boarded the tram to the airport hotel. We checked in, paying far too much, but once we had a bed to lie in and a shower, found it worth it. Soon we searched out a flight and began to relax, days, even weeks of stress melting off. 

24 hours later we hopped back on the train and flew to Denver. It was vacant, and we struggled to find food. Our connection was to Chicago where we rented a car and did the long drive back to Michigan. Being back in our lakehouse was a relief, especially after what was essentially 4 days of hustle and travel. The next evening I drove to Grand Rapids and picked up our friend Faze. She would stay two weeks with us as we all were self-isolating. We did curbside pick up for groceries and relied on family to have stocked the fridge.  We celebrated Easter in isolation, and the girls, eager to play with their friends, would go outside and talk to them while sitting in boats and on docks, "separated." We did puzzles, worked online late at night for classes back in India, and watched "Tiger King." 

And thus ended a crazy evacuation from India during the pandemic.

PS - the unknown amount we had to promise to pay the government for these flights was never declared. We simply signed a promissory note and boarded the plane. No word came. Then, in October, many months later, we received a letter. The flights were over $2500 each ($10,000 for my family). We paid and submitted to our school (old school by that point) and, thankfully, were reimbursed. 

Nepal 2020

 Across the world, whispers of something called COVID started to turn into shouts. While we had yet to experience any of this in India to that point, we planned to go to Nepal. Others started to cancel their trips but we held out, hopeful we could still attend. 

We flew to Kathmandu and on to Pokhara with our hotel overlooking Phewa Lake. A hike up from town to the beautifully white World Peace Pagoda gave us views of the Annapurna Range that cannot be rivaled. Our driver took us to the south of town and we walked the short way to Devi's Falls, storied to have a tourist once go under and die. We also headed outside of town to the bat cave and walked under thousands of hanging creatures. If that wasn't questionable enough, we had to climb out. Not afraid of climbing a bit we managed to get out, but not without significant scrambling and squeezing out. The people ahead of us let us pass because they were, shall we say, not the same body type. How (if) they made it out, we will never know.

The next day we visited the International Mountain Museum. Inside were all sorts of pictures and artifacts dedicated to mountaineering in the region. There were some interestsing pieces related to Everest which I found informative. 

The world's fastest zip line is said to be here but the kids were too young to do it, so rather than go alone, we did something together. We were driven to the top of the mountain and then hooked into our harnesses. With a guide behind us, we were told to run toward the edge of the cliff and not stop. So we did and soon were sailing high above the lake. Paragliding offered amazing views of both the lake below and the mountains above. Due to the thermal updrafts, we were able to ride for quite some time, with a few people wishing it would end sooner, especially when we went into spinning dives. 

Our short trip was wrapped up with some cocktails and food while watching the sun set over the lake. Earlier that day we took a boat ride on the water, bumping around in the junky boats that take anyone and everyone out for a spin. We flew home to India shortly after, and within days, everything fell apart. Flights were canceled, people were stranded. COVID had arrived and, as we know, there would be no end in sight. We look at this whole experience as having stolen a vacation since there wouldn't be another for quite some time!

My Smilebox Creation

New Zealand

After arriving from a very long flight to Auckland, Justin popped up early in the morning after little sleep to collect our Jucy rental van, our home for two weeks.  This "van" had a kitchen of sorts, a dining table which turned into the main bed, and a lofted area that converted to a second bed. We grabbed groceries and headed down the road to our first stop, Hobbiton, where we would visit the Shire. This movie set was used in the filming of the Hobbit and Lord of the Rings, and we walked through all of the places we saw on screen: the mill, Frodo's/Bilbo's house, Sam's house, the Party Tree, the garden, and we wrapped it all up with a stop in the Green Dragon Inn for a beer.

Onward we traveled to the beautiful Coromandel Pennisula and a stop at Hot Water Beach and the Hot Water Beach Resort Holiday Park. We spent the next three days hanging in our camper van here by the beach. While the ocean was far too cold to swim in, the beach was known for the chance to dig a hole in the sand at low tide and sit in the steamy waters.  Other side trips included a trip to the breweries in the area (Hot Water Brewing Company, The Pour House).  We headed up to the coast and decided to make the walk along the beach trail to Cathedral Cove. The name was misleading. After the first 100m was in the sand on the beach, we sent our sandals back to the car. Soon the path led up into the hills and sand turned to rooted trail and then rocky terrain.  We were still doing fine barefoot until the wooded path turned into a paved walkway.  This small, sharp stones making up the pavement were torture on our softened feet, and the sun coming down superheated the stone. We ended up running from shady spot to spot on the trail or jumping off and onto the grass or sand alongside when we could stand it no more. The walk was supposed to take 1.5 hours but we did it in about 45 min. We were rewarded with wonderful waves and views at Cathedra Cove and the kids were tempted to swim. After getting slammed by ice-cold giant waves, they stepped out. We had the long walk back and suffered the pain, but beer at the finish line made it all a memory.  We also celebrated Christmas in the van and made up a delicious dinner of steak, lobster, and shrimp on the grill.

Before heading to the next town, we made a stop in the national park to do a little hike. It was pouring rain and cloudy when were arrived, not ideal conditions for the next morning's trek. However, when we arose at 4:30am, the sky was clear.  We drove to the bus and took a bus to the park.  Our objective was the Tongariro Crossing, a 12.5-mile traverse of the mountains southwest of Taupo. It is hailed as the best one-day hike in the world, but is known for having brutal weather swings. Most people on the bus were dressed for what looked like a ski outing and we felt a little underprepared.  Once on the trail we steadily stamped out a pace on the well-formed boardwalks, staying ahead of most groups.  Others caught and passed us early but we overtook nearly all of them by the end. A long, steady climb greeted us from the gates and we hiked for quite a while as the sun rose over Mt. Doom (Mount Ngauruhoe).  Stopping only for snacks and water, we pushed up the slopes and headed for the ridge where we were greeted with an apocalyptic flat of sand surrounded by cliffs. Mad Max could have been filmed here. The wind was wicked across this vast opening.  At the end we started a steep climb up the ridge, often going hand over hand to avoid getting blown off the peak. Our hands froze as we battled the wind. It was 15 minutes of insanity.  The view from the top, however, was worth it. Huge peaks and deep valleys were all around, and there wasn't a cloud in the sky.  We descended down a steep scree slope, hoping not to fall. We all met up around Emerald Lakes, a series of small, green ponds colored by minerals. From there we dropped down again to a flat before a steep but brief climb to Blue Lake, a wonderful sight. From there the intensity rose again as we climbed high on the ridge, working our way around the mountain. Eventually, we started a long series of switchbacks down the mountain, hot springs all around.  We eventually entered the forest and kept to trails along rushing rivers for the remainder of the hike. After about 4.5 hours we reached the road, well ahead of nearly everyone that started with us. Most people take 7-8 hours. Exhausted, we snacked and rested while we waited several hours for our bus to pick us up. It was one of the prettiest but most difficult hikes we have done.

Our next stop took us to Taupo, the outdoor capital of the north island. We stayed in another holiday park (Lake Taupo Holiday Resort). The plus of this place was a giant pool with a cave, swim-up bar, and movies on the big screen twice a day!

Taelyn and Justin had been eyeing a skydive outing for over a year and set out to do it here. When they arrived, the winds were high and after waiting several hours, they were told they could not jump (with Taelyn being light, they didn't feel safe in these conditions). Undeterred, they came back a day later and waited out the weather. Dressed in gear, they climbed aboard the plane and headed up, oxygen masks on, still unsure if they could jump.  At 15,000 ft. they scooted to the door, looked down, and with a thumbs up, rolled out into the blue.  The 1 min free fall was intense but the setback was fingers and faces instantly froze.  The dive was captured on video making for a great memory.

After the dive, the fam headed to the Rock N Ropes.  Each person faced their fears by climbing high and traversing obstacles. One of our favorites was the telephone pole climb and the leap of faith to the trapeze.  The final test was a giant swing off a platform, freaking everyone out. Sarah had enough, and the girls could only jump from low, but Justin was able to climb to the top and do a jump 30ft into a giant pillow. It was terrifying and painful but a rush. Another thing we did was go to the Craters of the Moon, a geothermal park in Taupo. Lined with boardwalks, we went from place to place watching the steam come out of the earth.

After renting some bikes, we headed out for a 2-hour ride in the Craters Mountain Bike Park.  The girls were shaky at first but after a while found their groove and started doing some fun jumps, logs, and rails. Justin returned a couple of days later on his own and ended up doing some very technical trails. Routes did not hook up as planned, and with no phone service, things got sketchy. There were a few crashes and some close calls. He was on some trails where if he went over the edge, he wouldn't be found. After several hours and 20 miles, he made it back to the holiday park.

Another amazing adventure of Taupo is the Huka Falls Jet Boat experience. These vehicles hover on the top of the water and rip down the river at speeds of 80kmh. Every so often, the operator will whip the boat into a 360-degree turn, seeing who can keep down their lunch.  We also saw Huka Falls up close.  In this area, we started several hikes from Spa Park and hiked along the river to Huka Falls and back. In Spa Park you can also sit in the hot springs coming off the trails and find your comfort zone between the searing heat of the springs and the chill of the river. This is how we spent Sarah's birthday (New Year's Day) before having a dinner of steak, shrimp, lobster, and wine all before a movie in the pool.

Our drive north took us to the Glow Worm caves in Waitomo where an underground boat tour in the dark was met with amazing sparkling lights above us. Millions and millions of worms glow in the dark. It was quite a view, but cameras were not allowed so we didn't get to capture it. And then our trip to the North was finished as we returned to Auckland for the night. We played mini golf to kill the time.

The next morning we flew to the South Island. Our original plan was all the way to Queenstown but the time did not permit the distance. Instead, we landed in Nelson in the upper part of the South Island. Our first stop was Cable Bay Adventure Park, and while we were there for the skywire ride, we had more fun playing with the eels that were in the river by the start and taking on some archery. A ride to the top of the peak set us up for a ride back down on the world's longest flying fox. Unfortunately, the speed of the ride just didn't live up to the hype. While the views were cool and the ride down (forward) and the ride back (backward) was interesting, it lacked the real excitement for the price. Our base was Tahuna Beach Kiwi Holiday Park along the water, complete with putt-putt and walks on the beach. 

We drove to Able Tasman National Park for a day. Our first trip was a boat ride out to Seal Island and Apple Rock before we stepped off the boat for a long hike back through the woods. We crossed rivers and fields as well as a lake at low tide. Temps were warm and humidity high so it proved to be a fairly decent challenge. 

In town we rented bicycles to take on the Cycling Great Taste Trail, a non-descript route stopping at breweries along the way. Heavy winds posed a bit of a challenge for the kids but with frequent stops, we made it and got to try many new places. Cider was the big hit. Not to be outdone, the wine got it's turn on the weekend. We rented a cruiser which was essentially a 4-seater bike in the shape of a car. It looked amazing but it would prove to be a major mistake by the end of the day. The kids just could not pedal it well, and Justin ended up doing a bulk of the work, pushing the heavy vehicle down the road. At one point, it was so hot, the shirt had to come off. We bounced from winery to winery, having sips and samples at each along with the occasional meat and cheese platter. A nap and some television helped us recover enough for a drink at Dodson Street Beer Garden.

Totally beat, we flew back to Auckland for a final night but stuck with putt-putt and another night in the Ibis Hotel by the airport, content to rest before the flight back the next afternoon. New Zealand is probably on everyone's bucket list and while I hope our 2nd trip was not our last to this beautiful place. But we did it right, that's for sure. 

My Smilebox Creation

Goa Thanksgiving 2019

Better than turkey!

Taelyn's shark

Lobster and tiger prawns

We did our 4th consecutive Thanksgiving in India in Goa at the beach. This time we repeated last year's trip with our friends Bob & Tracy and their child, Jack, and Kyle and his three children. However, we stayed at a different place called A's Holiday Beach Resort and were not disappointed. Same white sand beaches, same shacks with beer and seafood. Yet this place had a pool and breakfast made in our villa.  The best part is that it is a short walk from our favorite place: Martin's Corner.

We made it down there Thanksgiving night to enjoy our typical lobster dinner in place of the turkey. Taelyn at shark for the first time and we paid her off to eat a fish eyeball! Each day was spent with a nice run along the beach followed by a catered breakfast. We went to the beach and swam, body surfed, and boogie boarded the day away. Beers were plenty and the sun was hot. We took to the pool in the afternoon followed by a nap. We then hit the beach (or Martin's Corner) for dinners, hammering down shrimp and fish.  It ended all too early.

Boogie Boarding

Spain 2019

Headed to Bilbao for a conference on University Counseling.  A very busy two days but lovely (rare) weather, and lots of food, drink, and connections. Hit up the famous Guggenheim Museum:

Guggenheim

Maman

Puppy

Walked around town and enjoyed.

Fountain of Dogs

Santiago Cathedral

After the conference, I went to San Sebastian for a day. The weather was poor but I did what I could to see the town.

Took a quick day in Barcelona reliving my favorite sights, which include Brewdog, Bier Cab, and Ale & Hop, as well as Mamaine, where they make a cookie mojito!

Arco de Triunfo de Barcelona 

unfinished, yet spectacular

Sagrada Familia

Italy 2019

Taking the chance to run a marathon while on vacation, we bounced over to Venice. The marathon was not as good as planned; Justin was not in great shape and faded a bit coming into town. His friend, Kirsten, was traveling with us but was injured and could not compete. After the race, we strolled the streets, enjoying Aperol Spritz, wine, and some beer. The next few days, we visited Doge Palace, the Bridge of Sighs, and St. Mark's Square. We even saw The Campo San Barnaba, which is where Indiana Jones exits the library in The Last Crusade. Pizza was plentiful, as was pasta, and we navigated the small alleyways out to Rialto Bridge and other interesting views. We wanted to do a gondola ride on the canal, but it was insanely expensive. Venice takes significant advantage of tourism, and it limited our potential to make the most of it. Soon it was time to get out of the tight city.

We rented a car and headed west, stopping first at the Madonna Della Corona, a beautiful church built into the side of a mountain. It was raining, so after we walked a long way down the mountain, we finally come to it, but the view was impaired by the mist. Inside, the church was petty, but the location is the real draw to this place. We drove on to Sirmione, a small village on a peninsula jetting out into lake Garda. We parked and walked the road into the city at the end which looked like a castle. The entire place was surrounded by water, and the city walls protected the area. Gelato places were everywhere - far more than are needed for this small place. We ate at Trattoria La Fiasca, enjoying amazing food and the best bread and balsamic we have ever tasted. We toyed with stopping in fair Verona to see Juliet's balcony from Romeo & Juliet (whatever that means), as well as try grappa in Bassono del Grappa, but the persistent rains kept us in the car. 

We took the train north to Conegliano and then a cab to Soligo. This is where Prosecco is made and it was a beautiful place. We ate pizza at Pizzeria Tonino and had beers. At first, we thought it was the price per slice so we got about 6 of them. It turns out the cheap price was per pizza, so we ended up with more than we could possibly eat. The next day we went on a wine tour, learning about the production of Prosecco and the government regulation over the use of the name. We even walked up a hill and bought a bottle from a vending machine which we enjoyed overlooking the valley. All of the wine was solid.

Venice was crowded and expensive, and it was not making the list of my favorite places in Italy. However, we really enjoyed the areas around it and vowed to come back. We caught great weather for the race and the wine country while it was poor in between, so that was also a win. 

My Smilebox Creation

Ireland and Northern Ireland

With Spring Break falling over St. Patrick's Day, we couldn't resist heading to Ireland again. This time, however, we would skip Dublin and spend more time in the West, which is a lot less touristy and more nature-driven. Plus, the music of the West is world famous. To cap it off, we'd end the trip in Northern Ireland, which we had not been to as of yet.

Upon arriving in Dublin, we rented a car and cruised across the island, arriving in Galway by mid-day and staying at the Connacht Hotel. There were various events happening all weekend and we watched a concert on Eyre Square and visited O'Connells pub where Ed Sheeran filmed his video for "Galway Girl". The next morning was St. Patrick's Day so we started it like I have for the past 20 years by watching the U2 video of "Where the Streets Have No Name"from the Rattle and Hum tour. A full Irish breakfast, complete with Guinness fueled us up and we hit the streets to watch the parade. The weather cooperated and while a bit windy, we had some sun. After the parade, we popped into a pub and the girls did some coloring and reading on the floor while we enjoyed a pint. Sarah and I headed to the Salthill Prom to visit a pub in the evening without the kids. We listened to some great music and enjoyed some Guinness. 

Not wanting to linger, we drove north on the 18th up to Connemara National Park. It rained the whole day so when we came to Kylemore Abbey, we just took a picture and got back in the car. We glimpsed the bridge used in the John Wayne film, The Quiet Man, and hooked around to see Dunguaire Castle
Our base for two days was Doolin, the home of traditional Irish music, and we took full advantage, spending each night in the pubs listening to people jam. During the day we visited the Aillwee Caves, hiking beneath the ground, and visiting the birds of prey show outside, where we saw demonstrations and the girls readily volunteered to hold some of the bigger animals. We also hiked the Burren - the rocky land outside of Doolin - and braved the hills. 

After two days, we headed north to the other part of the island - Northern Ireland. Based in beautiful Belfast, we took side trips. Since Sarah is an English teacher and was teaching the author, we visited the Seamus Heaney Home Place where much of his work was on display. While the kids weren't thrilled with this stop, we made up for it by putting in an afternoon at the Titanic Belfast museum. The building site of the ship was outside, still mapped and sitting there in drydock. Inside, numerous exhibits showcase the construction as well as the stories aboard before its downfall. It really is a must-see in the world. We finished the day with a stop in CS Lewis Square where the author has several statues in tribute to his work. 

Outside of the city, we took a hike along the famous Giant's Causeway. The unique rock formations are something that just don't seem to exist elsewhere. Many of the rock formations are open to climb on and the pictures just don't do it justice. Just down the road is the Dark Hedges, the unique road with very old trees arching across. While at this time of year, the trees are bare of leaves, it was a cool sight. Others might remember this as "The King's Road" from "Game of Thrones." And no trip to the north of the island would be complete without a stop at the Bushmill's distillery, a staple of the region for more than 400 years. While it is not my favorite spirit, we had a small taster just to try it out. 

The rest of our time in Belfast was simple. We enjoyed seeing some of the artwork that is on the sides of buildings, ranging from patriotic to violent, showing elements of the city's storied past. Belfast now is one of the more safe cities around, but the tensions still exist. Upon leaving the city, we took a stop in the town of Downpatrick, where outside of Down Cathedral, sits the grave of St. Patrick. Our drive was lovely, lots of sun, and we cut through the Morne Mountains before getting Dublin for our flight. 

My Smilebox Creation